Cosmetic compositions comprising ginger root extracts

ABSTRACT

Suggested is a cosmetic composition comprising an anti-pollution agent selected from the group consisting of ginger root C02 extract, E/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one, sclareolide, purple coneflower pressed juice or mixtures thereof, in a working amount sufficient for (a) reducing or preventing air pollution induced gene expression, and/or (b) reducing or preventing a gene expression induced or inducible by polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, and/or (c) reducing or preventing air pollution-induced or air pollution-inducible skin damage.

FIELD OF INVENTION

The present invention belongs to the area of cosmetics and refers to acomposition comprising specific agents effective in preventing andcuring human skin and hair from diseases induced by air pollution.

STATE OF THE ART

The human skin is the outer covering of the body. In humans, it is thelargest organ of the integumentary system. The skin has multiple layersof ectodermal tissue and guards the underlying muscles, bones, ligamentsand internal organs. Human skin is similar to that of most othermammals, except that it is not protected by a fur. Though nearly allhuman skin is covered with hair follicles, it can appear hairless. Awrinkle, also known as a rhytide, is a fold, ridge or crease in theskin. Skin wrinkles typically appear as a result of aging processes suchas glycation, habitual sleeping positions loss of body mass, ortemporarily, as the result of prolonged immersion in water. Agewrinkling in the skin is promoted by habitual facial expressions, aging,sun damage, smoking, poor hydration, and various other factors. Muchwork has been done for identifying factors that can inhibit or at leastslow down skin ageing. In fact, cosmetic market shows a magnitude ofdifferent products often advertised as anti-ageing or anti-wrinkleactives.

On the other side, little attempt has been made with regard to anotherimportant factor that lead to skin ageing, formation of wrinkles and mayalso cause inflammations and perhaps skin cancer: air pollution.

The term air pollution includes but is not limited to the exhausts oftraffic, not to forget the exhaust of industry in this context. Airpollution is meaning the released gas pollutants but also the releasedparticles in this context. But also the particles by abrasion of rubberwheels are included. The particles which are involved in air pollutionmight have bound polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH) but are notlimited to these PAH rich ones. Also carbon black particles released byprinters are an air pollution problem which is occurring indoor. Anotherproblem is the generation of air pollution by indoor cooking with coalor firewood.

The exposure of human skin to repeated air pollution was shown inepidemiological studies to support extrinsic skin aging associated withpigment spots and wrinkles [Vierkoetter et al., J Invest Dermatol 130(12), 2719-26, 2010]. The formation of pigment spots is due to acrosstalk of keratinocytes and melanocytes, the melanin producing cellsof the skin. Keratinocytes release inter alia POMC (proopiomelanocortin)which stimulates melanogenesis in melanocytes. By inhibiting theinduction of POMC gene the skin cells are protected against excessivemelanin formation. Increased formation of wrinkles is due to an enhancedactivity of MMP1 (matrixmetalloproteinase-1) in the skin, an enzymewhich is responsible for the degradation of collagen. By inhibiting theinduction of MMP1 gene the skin cells are protected against wrinkleformation. Different cytokines like e.g. IL-6 (interleukin-6) results ininflammation but also via post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation into agespots. By inhibiting the induction of IL-6 gene the skin cells areprotected against inflammation as well as pigment spot formation.

While certain mechanisms how air pollution interacts with human skin andhair and creates disorders and dysfunctions, little is known aboutactives that can prevent and cure damaged human skin and hair.Therefore, the object of the present invention has been to identifysuitable actives and active mixtures useful to simultaneously fight thenegative consequences that air pollutants provide to human skin andhair, in particular to inhibit the induction of POMC gene, and thereforeprotects skin cells against excessive melanin formation. Another focusin the fight against the negative consequences that air pollutantsprovide to human skin and hair, was to provide actives and activemixtures which especially inhibit the induction of MMP1(matrixmetalloproteinase-1) in the skin to protect the skin againstincreased formation of wrinkles. A further object was to provide activesand active mixtures which especially inhibit the induction of IL-6(interleukin-6) to protect skin cells against inflammation as well aspigment spot formation. At last, it was an object to provide actives andactive mixtures which inhibit the activation of the AhR (arylhydrocarbon receptor) measured as induction of the CYP1A1 (CytochromeP450, Family 1, Subfamily A, Polypeptide 1) gene upregulation,particularly particle induced CYP1A1 gene expression and thus avoidingdiseases associated with particle induced AhR activation, particularlyparticles resulting from air pollution.

DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Object of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising ananti-pollution agent selected from the group consisting of ginger rootCO2 extract, E/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one,sclareolide, purple coneflower pressed juice or mixtures thereof,especially ginger root CO2 extract in a working amount sufficient for

-   (a) reducing or preventing air pollution induced gene expression,    and/or-   (b) reducing or preventing a gene expression induced or inducible by    polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, and/or-   (c) reducing or preventing air pollution-induced or air    pollution-inducible skin damage, especially skin cancer, skin    ageing, skin inflammation and hyperpigmentation.

Surprisingly, it has been observed that

-   -   ginger root CO2 extract and/or    -   E/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one and/or    -   Sclareolide and/or    -   purple coneflower pressed juice    -   taken alone, preferably in binary or ternary mixture, inhibit in        vitro on human epidermal keratinocytes the up-regulation of        genes involved in skin aging after incubation with model        particles described as appropriate surrogates for the study of        authentic street particles (Danielsen et al, Particle and Fibre        Toxicology 2008, 5:6). But also after incubation with indoor        particles which have a lower amount of PAHs bound to the        particles gene expression was induced. Particularly, ginger root        CO2 extract was capable to inhibit also this up-regulation.

Preferably the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprisesas anti-pollution agent ginger root CO2 extract in a working amountsufficient for

-   (a) reducing or preventing air pollution induced gene expression,    and/or-   (b) reducing or preventing a gene expression induced or inducible by    polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, and/or-   (c) reducing or preventing air pollution-induced or air    pollution-inducible skin damage, especially skin cancer, skin    ageing, skin inflammation and hyperpigmentation.

Binary and Ternary Mixtures

In a preferred embodiment a cosmetic composition of the presentinvention comprises a binary mixture of said agents, wherein the binarymixture is in particular selected from one of the following binarymixtures:

-   (i) ginger root CO2 extract and sclareolide, or-   (ii) ginger root CO2 extract and    E/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one, or-   (ii) ginger root CO2 extract and purple coneflower pressed juice.

The said binary mixtures are particularly advantageously suitable asdrugs or non-drugs (especially in cosmetic form) for protecting skinand/or hair, particularly in aspect to the aforementioned effects (a) to(c).

Therefore, a further aspect of the present invention is directed to thepreferred binary mixtures themselves as listed above.

In a binary mixture ginger root CO2 extract is preferably present in anamount from 10% by weight to 70% by weight, andE/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one is preferablypresent in an amount from 30% by weight to 90% by weight, with theprovision that ginger root CO2 extract andE/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one add together to100% by weight. In another binary mixture with ginger root CO2 extractand sclareolide or purple coneflower pressed juice, the amounts of eachof those actives is preferably from 20% by weight to 80% by weight, inthe composition, with the provision that all actives add together to100% by weight

Most preferred is the binary mixture comprising ginger root CO2 extractand E/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one orsclareolide, whereinE/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one is present inthe end product, which is preferably a cosmetic or pharmaceuticalproduct, in an amount from 0.1% by weight to 0.5% by weight, morepreferably 0.3% by weight to 0.5% by weight and sclareolide or gingerroot CO2 extract are present in the end product in an amount from 0.05%by weight to 0.2% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 0.2%by weight.

In another preferred embodiment the compositions comprise ternarymixtures of said agents, such as

-   (i) ginger root CO2 extract, sclareolide and purple coneflower    pressed juice; or-   (ii) ginger root CO2 extract,    E/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one and    sclareolide; or-   (iii) ginger root CO2 extract,    E/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one and purple    coneflower pressed juice.

The said ternary mixtures are particularly advantageously to affectadditive and/or synergistically effects on the properties of themixtures for protecting skin and/or hair, particularly in aspect to theaforementioned effects (a) to (c).

Therefore, a further aspect of the present invention is directed to thepreferred ternary mixtures (i) to (iii) themselves as listed above.

Preferably ginger root CO2 extract is present in an amount from 5% byweight to 60% by weight, whereinE/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one is preferablypresent in an amount from 20% by weight to 90% by weight, andsclareolide is preferably present in an amount from 5% by weight to 60%by weight in a ternary mixture (i), with the provision that all threecompounds add together to 100% by weight.

Preferably ginger root CO2 extract is present in an amount from 12.5% byweight to 75% by weight, wherein sclareolide is preferably present in anamount from 12.5% by weight to 75% by weight and purple coneflowerpressed juice is preferably present in an amount from 12.5% by weight to75% by weight in a ternary mixture (ii), with the provision that allthree compounds add together to 100% by weight.

Preferably ginger root CO2 extract is present in an amount from 5% byweight to 60% by weight, whereinE/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one is preferablypresent in an amount from 20% by weight to 90% by weight, and purpleconeflower pressed juice is preferably present in an amount from 5% byweight to 60% by weight in a ternary mixture (ii), with the provisionthat all three compounds add together to 100% by weight.

A working amount of an anti-pollution agent, respectively a binary orternary mixture thereof, means an amount from 0.01% by weight to 2.5% byweight, preferably from about 0.05% by weight to 1.0% by weight of saidanti-pollution agent(s), in case of the binary or ternary mixture, thesum of all anti-pollution agents in the mixture—calculated on the finalcomposition.

Ginger Root CO2 Extract

Ginger root extracts with a high content of pungent components arewell-known for the flavouring of food and beverages. Thecharacterization of ginger root extracts by HPLC, GC and otheranalytical methods is well-described. The quantification of pungentcomponents like gingerols, shogaols and zingerone is good laboratorypractice. But ginger extracts characterized by a high content of pungentcomponents of 42-50% b.w. have not been described for cosmeticapplications before.

The water and/or ethanol and/or water/ethanol extracts of ginger root ofunknown composition are described as anti-oxidants and anti-aging agentsand are often disclosed as the preferred extracts for theseapplications. The use of these extracts is described inter alia in JP2009 073777 A1 for the improvement of wrinkles, in JP 2000 319189 A1 aselastase inhibitors, by Fujimura et al. (Fragrance Journal (2002),30(6), 38-42) for wrinkle improvement by inhibition of elastaseactivity. In JP 2007008847 the claimed extract was prepared with 20%ethanol resulting in the concentration of fructosyl dipeptides as activeprinciples.

For the application to hair and scalp ginger tincture, ginger juice andthe above mentioned water and/or ethanol and/or water/ethanol extractsof ginger root are well-known. As activities for these extracts on hairand scalp inter alia enhanced microcirculation is described. Forexample, CN 102451128 A1 suggests a shampoo claimed to prevent hair losscontains 5% ginger juice. JP 63 091315 A1 describes microcirculationenhancing ginger juice in shampoo formations for hair growthstimulation. EP 1281402 B1 (Kao) refers to a ginger extractsubstantially free of gingerols for hair growth inhibition.

Ginger oil was used as a soothing, relaxing or warming agent in cosmeticformulations in WO 2009 087578 A1 (Foamix). But the document did notdisclose the composition of the ginger oil. The essential oil of gingeris known for a strong pungent smell and taste due to the volatileconstituents and is not comparable to the ginger pungent extractaccording to the present invention.

The isolation of the pungent components of ginger is described indifferent documents. Ficker et al. (Phytotherapy Research (2003), 17(8),897-902) evaluated the anti-fungal activity of ginger constituents.

The evaluation of anti-inflammatory activity of pungent components ofginger was given in different documents, inter alia by Lantz et al.(Phytomedicine (2007), 14(2-3), 123-128). Additionally the anti-tumouractivity and proliferation inhibitory activity on tumour cells wereevaluated by different groups, inter alia by Sang et al. (Journal ofAgricultural and Food Chemistry (2009), 57(22), 10645-10650).

In CN 1840162 A1 a ginger root CO₂ extract is described withoutspecifying the content of pungent components like gingerols andshogaols. The extract is disclosed as an anti-inflammatory extract.Application examples are tablets, pills and capsules for oralconsumption. Examples for topical application on skin are not described.

Ginger root CO2 extracts that are particularly preferred in the contentof the present invention contain

-   (a) 25 to 30% b.w. [6]-gingerol-   (b) 5 to 10% b.w. [8]-gingerol-   (c) 5 to 10% b.w. [10]-gingerol-   (d) 1.5 to 4% b.w. [6]-shogaol-   (e) 0.3 to 1.3% b.w. [8]-shogaol;-   (f) 0.03 to 1% b.w. [10]-shogaol;-   (g) 0.01 to 1% b.w. zingerone,    on condition that the amount of gingerols sums up to 35 to 50% b.w.    and the amount of shogaols sums up to 1.5 t 6% b.w. Extracts of this    kind are subject to EP 2772245 A1 (SYMRISE) which is hereby    incorporated by reference with regard to the nature of the extracts    and the manner how to obtain them. The product is obtainable under    the trademark SymVital® AgeRepair 3040 from Symrise AG, Holzminden    (DE).

E/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one

E/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one is known toprevent the activation of the AhR by UVB radiation and is described bythe following formulae:

Benzylidene Dimethoxydimethylindanone

The product is obtainable under the trademark SymUrban™ from Symrise AG,Holzminden (DE).

Sclareolide

is a compound prepared by chemical modification or by biotransformationof the labdan type diterpene sclareol. Sclareol is present in stems,leaves and flowering parts of clary sage (Salvia sclarea L.) and itsisolation from this source has been described (U.S. Pat. No. 3,060,172).According to the present invention, the source of sclareolide can bederived (extracted) naturally from either species of the Salvia genus,or can be synthetically obtained as substantially pure sclareolide. Thesubstantially pure sclareolide contains according to the presentinvention more than 70 percent sclareolide.

Synonyms for Sclareolide are(3aR,5aS,9aS,9bR)-decahydro-3a,6,6,9a-tetramethyl-naphtha[2,1-b]furan-2(1H)-one;3a,4,5,5aα,6,7,8,9,9a,9bα-deca hydro-3aβ,6,6,9aβ-tetramethyl-naphtho[2,1-b]furan-2(1H)-one;[3aR-(3aα,5aβ,9aα,9bβ)]-decahydro-3a,6,6,9a-tetramethyl-Naphtho[2,1-b]furan-2(1H)-one;Norambreinolide; (+)-Norambreinolide; (+)-Sclareolide,(R)-(+)-Sclareolide; 13,14,15,16-Tetranorlabdano-8α,12-lactone;Norambreinolid.

Sclareolide is a precursor of ambroxan, a valuable ambergris fragranceused in perfumery. But as sclareolide is used itself as a fragrancematerial it is often a component of cosmetic formulations.

The anti-inflammatory activity of sclareol and sclareolide is describedin WO 200 230385 A2 (Henkel). The anti-inflammatory activity is provenby an inhibition of 5-lipoxygenase as well as cyclooxygenase-1 activity.The use of Sclareolide within a natural combination of five componentsto treat acne is given in US 2003 072777 (Color Access). Theanti-microbial activity of inter alia sclareolide and sclareol isalready described in WO 1999 063978 A1 (Reynolds) concluding thatsclareolide and sclareol are useful to treat acne, dermatitis andundesirable body odour. In WO 2001 074327 A2 (Color Access) the use ofinter alia sclareolide as cell differentiation enhancer is disclosed.According to this patent the differentiation enhancers like sclareolideare used to stimulate the production of lipids from epidermal cells, andconcurrently increase the lipid content of the barrier. As a use of thedescribed compositions the enhancement and prolongation of self-tanningproducts is mentioned. Again the strengthening of barrier by the use ofsclareolide alone as well as combined with white birch extract isdescribed in WO 2002060381 A2 (Color Access). The use of sclareolide incosmetic formulations used to enhance the stratum corneum function isdescribed in US 2010 247692 A1 (Color Access). The invention WO 2008155048 A1 (Cognis) discloses cosmetic compositions comprisingsclareolide alone or combined with hesperidin methyl chalcone. Thecosmetic compositions are described to be used for the tanning of skin,the darkening of hair, or the preventing of greying of hair.

Purple Coneflower Pressed Juice

Purple coneflower is a common name of the flowering plant Echinaceapurpurea in the family Asteraceae:

Echinacea purpurea is native to eastern North America. Echinacea was oneof the basic antimicrobial herbs of eclectic medicine from the mid-19thcentury through the early 20th century, and its use was documented forsnakebite, anthrax, and for relief of pain. In the 1930s echinaceabecame popular in both Europe and America as an herbal medicine. Primaryuse of Echinacea preparations today is for prevention and treatment ofupper respiratory infections (cold and flu). The valuable constituentsof purple coneflower pressed juice are caffeic acid derivatives (mainlycichoric and caftaric caid), polysaccharides, proteins and amino acids.The product is obtainable under the trademark SymFinity® 1298 fromSymrise AG, Holzminden (DE).

Cosmetic Composition

Another object of the present invention encompasses cosmeticcompositions comprising said actives. The compositions according to thepresent invention may represent personal care compositions, skin carecompositions, hair care compositions or sun care compositions, forexample in the form of a lotion, a cream, an emulsion, a foam, a mousse,an oil or a stick. Said compositions may contain said agents, binary orternary mixtures in amounts of from about 0.01% by weight to about 2.5%by weight and preferably from about 0.05% by weight to about 1.0% byweight—calculated on the final composition.

Preferably, the compositions may further comprise cosmeticallyacceptable carriers, such as for example water, C2-C4 alcohols, polyolshaving 2 to 6 carbon atoms and/or oil bodies.

The preparations according to the invention may contain abrasives,anti-acne agents, agents against ageing of the skin, anti-celluliteagents, antidandruff agents, anti-inflammatory agents,irritation-preventing agents, irritation-inhibiting agents,antioxidants, astringents, perspiration-inhibiting agents, antisepticagents, anti-statics, binders, buffers, carrier materials, chelatingagents, cell stimulants, cleansing agents, care agents, depilatoryagents, surface-active substances, deodorizing agents, antiperspirants,softeners, emulsifiers, enzymes, essential oils, fibres, film-formingagents, fixatives, foam-forming agents, foam stabilizers, substances forpreventing foaming, foam boosters, gelling agents, gel-forming agents,hair care agents, hair-setting agents, hair-straightening agents,moisture-donating agents, moisturizing substances, moisture-retainingsubstances, bleaching agents, strengthening agents, stain-removingagents, optically brightening agents, impregnating agents,dirt-repellent agents, friction-reducing agents, lubricants,moisturizing creams, ointments, opacifying agents, plasticizing agents,covering agents, polish, gloss agents, polymers, powders, proteins,re-oiling agents, abrading agents, silicones, skin-soothing agents,skin-cleansing agents, skin care agents, skin-healing agents,skin-lightening agents, skin-protecting agents, skin-softening agents,hair promotion agents, cooling agents, skin-cooling agents, warmingagents, skin-warming agents, stabilizers, UV-absorbing agents, UVfilters, detergents, fabric conditioning agents, suspending agents,skin-tanning agents, thickeners, vitamins, oils, waxes, fats,phospholipids, saturated fatty acids, mono- or polyunsaturated fattyacids, α-hydroxy acids, polyhydroxyfatty acids, liquefiers, dyestuffs,colour-protecting agents, pigments, anti-corrosives, aromas, flavouringsubstances, odoriferous substances, polyols, surfactants, electrolytes,organic solvents or silicone derivatives and the like as additionalauxiliaries and additives.

Surfactants

Preferred auxiliaries and additives are anionic and/or amphoteric orzwitterionic surfactants. Typical examples of anionic surfactants aresoaps, alkyl benzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefin sulfonates,alkylether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, methyl estersulfonates, sulfofatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ethersulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxymixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide(ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkylsulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylicacids and salts thereof, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acidsarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids such as, forexample, acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates and acylaspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acidcondensates (particularly wheat-based vegetable products) and alkyl(ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol etherchains, they may have a conventional homolog distribution although theypreferably have a narrow-range homolog distribution. Typical examples ofamphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines,alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazoliniumbetaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are all knowncompounds. Information on their structure and production can be found inrelevant synoptic works, cf. for example J. Falbe (ed.), “Surfactants inConsumer Products”, Springer Verlag, Berlin, 1987, pages 54 to 124 or J.Falbe (ed.), “Katalysatoren, Tenside and Mineraloladditive (Catalysts,Surfactants and Mineral Oil Additives)”, Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, 1978,pages 123-217. The percentage content of surfactants in the preparationsmay be from 0.1 to 10% by weight and is preferably from 0.5 to 5% byweight, based on the preparation.

Oil Bodies

Suitable oil bodies, which form constituents of the O/W emulsions, are,for example, Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18,preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms, esters of linear C₆-C₂₂-fatty acidswith linear or branched C₆-C₂₂-fatty alcohols or esters of branchedC₆-C₁₃-carboxylic acids with linear or branched C₆-C₂₂-fatty alcohols,such as, for example, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristylstearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate,myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate,cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, cetyl erucate, stearylmyristate, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, stearyl isostearate,stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, stearyl erucate, isostearyl myristate,isostearyl palmitate, isostearyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate,isostearyl oleate, isostearyl behenate, isostearyl oleate, oleylmyristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyloleate, oleyl behenate, oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, behenylpalmitate, behenyl stearate, behenyl isostearate, behenyl oleate,behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate,erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate anderucyl erucate. Also suitable are esters of linear C₆-C₂₂-fatty acidswith branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters ofC₁₈-C₃₈-alkylhydroxy carboxylic acids with linear or branchedC₆-C₂₂-fatty alcohols, in particular Dioctyl Malate, esters of linearand/or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as, forexample, propylene glycol, dimerdiol or trimertriol) and/or Guerbetalcohols, triglycerides based on C₆-C₁₀-fatty acids, liquidmono-/di-/triglyceride mixtures based on C₆-C₁₈-fatty acids, esters ofC₆-C₂₂-fatty alcohols and/or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylicacids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C₂-C₁₂-dicarboxylic acidswith linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyolshaving 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils,branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branchedC₆-C₂₂-fatty alcohol carbonates, such as, for example, DicaprylylCarbonate (Cetiol® CC), Guerbet carbonates, based on fatty alcoholshaving 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms, esters of benzoic acidwith linear and/or branched C₆-C₂₂-alcohols (e.g. Finsolv® TN), linearor branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as, for example, dicaprylyl ether(Cetiol® OE), ring-opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters withpolyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicone methicone grades,etc.) and/or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as, for example,squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.

Emulsifiers

Other surfactants may also be added to the preparations as emulsifiers,including for example:

-   -   products of the addition of 2 to 30 mol ethylene oxide and/or 0        to 5 mol propylene oxide onto linear C₈₋₂₂ fatty alcohols, onto        C₁₂₋₂₂ fatty acids and onto alkyl phenols containing 8 to 15        carbon atoms in the alkyl group;    -   C₁₂₁₁₈ fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products        of 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide onto glycerol;    -   glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of        saturated and unsaturated fatty acids containing 6 to 22 carbon        atoms and ethylene oxide addition products thereof;    -   addition products of 15 to 60 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil        and/or hydrogenated castor oil;    -   polyol esters and, in particular, polyglycerol esters such as,        for example, polyglycerol polyricinoleate, polyglycerol        poly-12-hydroxystearate or polyglycerol dimerate isostearate.        Mixtures of compounds from several of these classes are also        suitable;    -   addition products of 2 to 15 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil        and/or hydrogenated castor oil;    -   partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or        saturated C_(6/22) fatty acids, ricinoleic acid and        12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerol, polyglycerol,        pentaerythritol, -dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (for example        sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (for example methyl glucoside, butyl        glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (for example        cellulose);    -   mono-, di and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and/or        tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and salts thereof;    -   wool wax alcohols;    -   polysiloxane/polyalkyl polyether copolymers and corresponding        derivatives;    -   mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and        fatty alcohol and/or mixed esters of C₆₋₂₂ fatty acids, methyl        glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol,    -   polyalkylene glycols and    -   glycerol carbonate.

The addition products of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide ontofatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol mono- and diestersand sorbitan mono- and diesters of fatty acids or onto castor oil areknown commercially available products. They are homologue mixtures ofwhich the average degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratiobetween the quantities of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide andsubstrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. C_(12/18)fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products of ethyleneoxide onto glycerol are known as lipid layer enhancers for cosmeticformulations. The preferred emulsifiers are described in more detail asfollows:

Partial Glycerides.

Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acidmonoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acidmonoglyceride, isostearic acid diglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride,oleic acid diglyceride, ricinoleic acid monoglyceride, ricinoleic aciddiglyceride, linoleic acid monoglyceride, linoleic acid diglyceride,linolenic acid monoglyceride, linolenic acid diglyceride, erucic acidmonoglyceride, erucic acid diglyceride, tartaric acid monoglyceride,tartaric acid diglyceride, citric acid monoglyceride, citric aciddiglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride andtechnical mixtures thereof which may still contain small quantities oftriglyceride from the production process. Addition products of 1 to 30and preferably 5 to 10 mol ethylene oxide onto the partial glyceridesmentioned are also suitable.

Sorbitan Esters.

Suitable sorbitan esters are sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitansesquiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate,sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitantrioleate, sorbitan monoerucate, sorbitan sesquierucate, sorbitandierucate, sorbitan trierucate, sorbitan monoricinoleate, sorbitansesquiricinoleate, sorbitan diricinoleate, sorbitan triricinoleate,sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitandihydroxystearate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan monotartrate,sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate,sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan dicitrate,sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan sesquimaleate,sorbitan dimaleate, sorbitan trimaleate and technical mixtures thereof.Addition products of 1 to 30 and preferably 5 to 10 mol ethylene oxideonto the sorbitan esters mentioned are also suitable.

Polyglycerol Esters.

Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are Polyglyceryl-2Dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH), Polyglycerin-3-Diisostearate(Lameform® TGI), Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (Isolan® GI 34),Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate(Isolan® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450),Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate(Polyglycerol Caprate T2010/90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane®NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and PolyglycerylPolyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403), Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate andmixtures thereof. Examples of other suitable polyolesters are the mono-,di- and triesters of trimethylol propane or pentaerythritol with lauricacid, cocofatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid,oleic acid, behenic acid and the like optionally reacted with 1 to 30mol ethylene oxide.

Anionic Emulsifiers.

Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic C₁₂₋₂₂ fatty acids, such aspalmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid for example, and C₁₂₋₂₂dicarboxylic acids, such as azelaic acid or sebacic acid for example.

Amphoteric Emulsifiers.

Other suitable emulsifiers are amphboteric or zwitterionic surfactants.Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which contain atleast one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and onesulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionicsurfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate,N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for examplecocoacylaminopropyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, and2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines containing 8 to 18carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate. The fatty acid amide derivativeknown under the CTFA name of Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularlypreferred. Ampholytic surfactants are also suitable emulsifiers.Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in additionto a C_(8/18) alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino groupand at least one —COOH— or —SO₃H— group in the molecule and which arecapable of forming inner salts. Examples of suitable ampholyticsurfactants are N-alkyl glycines, N-alkyl propionic acids,N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids,N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropyl glycines, N-alkyl taurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkyl-aminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acidscontaining around 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularlypreferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylamino-propionate,cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C_(12/18) acyl sarcosine.

Superfatting Agents and Consistency Factors

Superfatting agents may be selected from such substances as, forexample, lanolin and lecithin and also polyethoxylated or acylatedlanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters,monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides, the fatty acidalkanolamides also serving as foam stabilizers.

The consistency factors mainly used are fatty alcohols or hydroxyfattyalcohols containing 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms andalso partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids. Acombination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and/or fattyacid N-methyl glucamides of the same chain length and/or polyglycerolpoly-12-hydroxystearates is preferably used.

Thickening Agents and Rheology Additives

Suitable thickeners are polymeric thickeners, such as Aerosil® types(hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, more especially xanthan gum,guar-guar, agar-agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose andhydroxyethyl cellulose, also relatively high molecular weightpolyethylene glycol monoesters and diesters of fatty acids,polyacrylates (for example Carbopols® [Goodrich] or Synthalens®[Sigma]), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone,surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides,esters of fatty acids with polyols, for example pentaerythritol ortrimethylol propane, narrow-range fatty alcohol ethoxylates andelectrolytes, such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride.

Polymers

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulosederivatives such as, for example, the quaternized hydroxyethyl celluloseobtainable from Amerchol under the name of Polymer JR 400®, cationicstarch, copolymers of diallyl ammonium salts and acrylamides,quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl imidazole polymers such as, forexample, Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols andamines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as, for example,Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen (Lamequat® L, Grünau),quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic siliconepolymers such as, for example, amodimethicone, copolymers of adipic acidand dimethylaminohydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine (Cartaretine®,Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyl diallyl ammoniumchloride (Merquat® 550, Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides and crosslinkedwater-soluble polymers thereof, cationic chitin deriva-tives such as,for example, quaternized chitosan, optionally in microcrystallinedistribution, condensation products of dihaloalkyls, for exampledibromobutane, with bis-dialkylamines, for examplebis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum such as, for example,Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 of Celanese, quaternizedammonium salt polymers such as, for example, Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol®AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 of Miranol and the various polyquaternium types (forexample 6, 7, 32 or 37) which can be found in the market under thetradenames Rheocare® CC or Ultragel® 300.

Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are,for example, vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate/butylmaleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinylether/maleicanhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked andpolyol-crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyl trimethylammoniumchloride/acrylate copolymers, octylacryl-amide/methylmethacrylate/tert.-butylaminoethyl methacrylate/2-hydroxypropylmethacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinylacetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate/vinyl caprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatizedcellulose ethers and silicones.

Pearlizing Waxes

Suitable pearlising waxes are, for example, alkylene glycol esters,especially ethylene glycol distearate; fatty acid alkanolamides,especially cocofatty acid diethanolamide; partial glycerides, especiallystearic acid monoglyceride; esters of polybasic, optionallyhydroxysubstituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols containing 6 to22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; fattycompounds, such as for example fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fattyaldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates which contain in all atleast 24 carbon atoms, especially laurone and distearylether; fattyacids, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ringopening products of olefin epoxides containing 12 to 22 carbon atomswith fatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and/or polyolscontaining 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixturesthereof.

Silicones

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethyl polysiloxanes,methylphenyl polysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino-, fatty acid-,alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and/oralkyl-modified silicone compounds which may be both liquid andresin-like at room temperature. Other suitable silicone compounds aresimethicones which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chainlength of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates.A detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can be found in Toddet al. in Cosm. Toil. 91, 27 (1976).

Waxes and Stabilizers

Besides natural oils used, waxes may also be present in thepreparations, more especially natural waxes such as, for example,candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, espartograss wax, cork wax,guaruma wax, rice oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax,beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), uropygial fat,ceresine, ozocerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes andmicrowaxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes) such as, for example,montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and syntheticwaxes such as, for example, polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycolwaxes.

Metal salts of fatty acids such as, for example, magnesium, aluminiumand/or zinc stearate or ricinoleate may be used as stabilizers.

Primary Sun Protection Factors

Primary sun protection factors in the context of the invention are, forexample, organic substances (light filters) which are liquid orcrystalline at room temperature and which are capable of absorbingultraviolet radiation and of releasing the energy absorbed in the formof longer-wave radiation, for example heat.

The formulations according to the invention advantageously contain atleast one UV-A filter and/or at least one UV-B filter and/or a broadbandfilter and/or at least one inorganic pigment. Formulations according tothe invention preferably contain at least one UV-B filter or a broadbandfilter, more particularly preferably at least one UV-A filter and atleast one UV-B filter.

Preferred cosmetic compositions, preferably topical formulationsaccording to the present invention comprise one, two, three or more sunprotection factors selected from the group consisting of 4-aminobenzoicacid and derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, benzophenonederivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, diphenyl acrylates,3-imidazol-4-yl acrylic acid and esters thereof, benzofuran derivatives,benzylidene malonate derivatives, polymeric UV absorbers containing oneor more organosilicon radicals, cinnamic acid derivatives, camphorderivatives, trianilino-s-triazine derivatives,2-hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole derivatives, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonicacid derivatives and salts thereof, anthranilic acid menthyl esters,benzotriazole derivativesand indole derivatives.

In addition, it is advantageous to combine compounds of formula (I) withactive ingredients which penetrate into the skin and protect the skincells from inside against sunlight-induced damage and reduce the levelof cutaneous matrix metalloproteases. Preferred respective ingredients,so called arylhydrocarbon receptor antagonists, are described in WO2007/128723, incorporated herein by reference. Preferred is2-benzylidene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one.

The UV filters cited below which can be used within the context of thepresent invention are preferred but naturally are not limiting.

UV filters which are preferably used are selected from the groupconsisting of

-   p-aminobenzoic acid-   p-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (25 mol) ethoxylated (INCI name:    PEG-25 PABA)-   p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester-   p-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (2 mol)N-propoxylated-   p-aminobenzoic acid glycerol ester-   salicylic acid homomenthyl ester (homosalates) (Neo Heliopan® HMS)-   salicylic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Neo Heliopan® OS)-   triethanolamine salicylate-   4-isopropyl benzyl salicylate-   anthranilic acid menthyl ester (Neo Heliopan® MA)-   diisopropyl cinnamic acid ethyl ester-   p-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Neo Heliopan® AV)-   diisopropyl cinnamic acid methyl ester-   p-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester (Neo Heliopan® E 1000)-   p-methoxycinnamic acid diethanolamine salt-   p-methoxycinnamic acid isopropyl ester-   2-phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid and salts (Neo Heliopan® Hydro)-   3-(4′-trimethylammonium) benzylidene bornan-2-one methyl sulfate-   beta-imidazole-4(5)-acrylic acid (urocanic acid)-   3-(4′-sulfo)benzylidene bornan-2-one and salts-   3-(4′-methyl benzylidene)-D,L-camphor (Neo Heliopan® MBC)-   3-benzylidene-D,L-camphor-   N-[(2 and 4)-[2-(oxoborn-3-ylidene) methyl]benzyl] acrylamide    polymer-   4,4′-[(6-[4-(1,1-dimethyl)aminocarbonyl)    phenylamino]-1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl)diimino]-bis-(benzoic    acid-2-ethylhexyl ester) (Uvasorb® HEB)-   benzylidene malonate polysiloxane (Parsol® SLX)-   glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate-   dipropylene glycol salicylate-   tris(2-ethylhexyl)-4,4′,4″-(1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino)tribenzoate    (=2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2′-ethylhexyl-1′-oxy)-1,3,5-triazine)    (Uvinul® T150).

Broadband filters which are preferably combined with one or morecompounds of formula (I) in a preparation according to the presentinvention are selected from the group consisting of

-   2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate (Neo Heliopan® 303)-   ethyl-2-cyano-3,3′-diphenyl acrylate-   2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (Neo Heliopan® BB)-   2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid-   dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-   2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone-   tetrahydroxybenzophenone-   2,2′-dihydroxy-4,4′-di methoxybenzophenone-   2-hydroxy-4-n-octoxybenzophenone-   2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4′-methyl benzophenone-   sodium hydroxymethoxybenzophenone sulfonate-   disodium-2,2′-dihydroxy-4,4′-dimethoxy-5,5′-disulfobenzophenone-   phenol,    2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-(2-methyl-3(1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-(trime-thylsilyl)oxy)disiloxyanyl)    propyl) (Mexoryl® XL)-   2,2′-methylene bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-1,1,3,3-tetra methyl    butyl) phenol) (Tinosorb® M)-   2,4-bis-[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-1,3,5-triazine-   2,4-bis-[{(4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine    (Tinosorb® S)-   2,4-bis-[{(4-(3-sulfonato)-2-hydroxypropyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine    sodium salt-   2,4-bis-[{(3-(2-propyloxy)-2-hydroxypropyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine-   2,4-bis-[{4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-[4-(2-methoxyethyl    carbonyl) phenylamino]-1,3,5-triazine-   2,4-bis-[{4-(3-(2-propyloxy)-2-hydroxypropyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-[4-(2-ethylcarboxyl)    phenylamino]-1,3,5-triazine-   2,4-bis-[{4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-(1-methylpyrrol-2-yl)-1,3,5-triazine-   2,4-bis-[{4-tris-(trimethylsiloxysilylpropyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine-   2,4-bis-[{4-(2″-methylpropenyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine-   2,4-bis-[{4-(1′,1′,1′,3′,5′,5′,5′-heptamethylsiloxy-2″-methylpropyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine.

The compositions can comprise further typical detergent and cleansingcomposition ingredients such as UV-A filters which are preferablycombined with one or more compounds of formula (I) in a preparationaccording to the present invention are selected from the groupconsisting of

-   4-isopropyl dibenzoyl methane-   terephthalylidene dibornane sulfonic acid and salts (Mexoryl® SX)-   4-t-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoyl methane (avobenzone)/(Neo Heliopan®    357)-   phenylene bis-benzimidazyl tetrasulfonic acid disodium salt (Neo    Heliopan® AP)-   2,2′-(1,4-phenylene)-bis-(1H-benzimidazole-4,6-disulfonic acid),    monosodium salt-   2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester    (Uvinul® A Plus)-   indanylidene compounds in accordance with DE 100 55 940 A1 (=WO 2002    038537 A1)

The compositions can comprise further typical detergent and cleansingcomposition ingredients such as UV filters which are more preferablycombined with one or more compounds of formula (I) in a preparationaccording to the present invention are selected from the groupconsisting of

-   p-aminobenzoic acid-   3-(4′-trimethylammonium) benzylidene bornan-2-one methyl sulfate-   salicylic acid homomenthyl ester (Neo Heliopan® HMS)-   2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (Neo Heliopan® BB)-   2-phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Neo Heliopan® Hydro)-   terephthalylidene dibornane sulfonic acid and salts (Mexoryl® SX)-   4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoyl methane (Neo Heliopan® 357)-   3-(4′-sulfo)benzylidene bornan-2-one and salts-   2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate (Neo Heliopan® 303)-   N-[(2 and 4)-[2-(oxoborn-3-ylidene) methyl]benzyl] acrylamide    polymer-   p-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Neo Heliopan® AV)-   p-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (25 mol) ethoxylated (INCI name:    PEG-25 PABA)-   p-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester (Neo Heliopan® E1000)-   2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2′-ethylhexyl-1′-oxy)-1,3,5-triazine    (Uvinul® T150)-   phenol,    2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-(2-methyl-3(1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-(trime-thylsilyl)oxy)disiloxyanyl)    propyl) (Mexoryl® XL)-   4,4′-[(6-[4-(1,1-dimethyl)aminocarbonyl)    phenylamino]-1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl)diimino]-bis-(benzoic    acid-2-ethylhexyl ester) (Uvasorb HEB)-   3-(4′-methyl benzylidene)-D,L-camphor (Neo Heliopan® MBC)-   3-benzylidene camphor-   salicylic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Neo Heliopan® OS)-   4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Padimate 0)-   hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and Na salt-   2,2′-methylene bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-1,1,3,3-tetra methyl    butyl) phenol) (Tinosorb® M)-   phenylene bis-benzimidazyl tetrasulfonic acid disodium salt (Neo    Heliopan® AP)-   2,4-bis-[{(4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine    (Tinosorb® S)-   benzylidene malonate polysiloxane (Parsol® SLX)-   menthyl anthranilate (Neo Heliopan® MA)-   2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester    (Uvinul® A Plus)-   indanylidene compounds in accordance with DE 100 55 940 (=WO    02/38537).

Advantageous primary and also secondary sun protection factors arementioned in WO 2005 123101 A1. Advantageously, these preparationscontain at least one UVA filter and/or at least one UVB filter and/or atleast one inorganic pigment. The preparations may be present here invarious forms such as are conventionally used for sun protectionpreparations. Thus, they may be in form of a solution, an emulsion ofthe water-in-oil type (W/O) or of the oil-in-water type (0/W) or amultiple emulsion, for example of the water-in-oil-in-water type(W/O/W), a gel, a hydrodispersion, a solid stick or else an aerosol.

In a further preferred embodiment a formulation according to theinvention contains a total amount of sunscreen agents, i.e. inparticular UV filters and/or inorganic pigments (UV filtering pigments)so that the formulation according to the invention has a lightprotection factor of greater than or equal to 2 (preferably greater thanor equal to 5). Such formulations according to the invention areparticularly suitable for protecting the skin and hair.

Secondary Sun Protection Factors

Besides the groups of primary sun protection factors mentioned above,secondary sun protection factors of the antioxidant type may also beused. Secondary sun protection factors of the antioxidant type interruptthe photochemical reaction chain which is initiated when UV rayspenetrate into the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (for exampleglycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophane) and derivatives thereof,imidazoles (for example urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof,peptides, such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine andderivatives thereof (for example anserine), carotinoids, carotenes (forexample alpha-carotene, beta-carotene, lycopene) and derivativesthereof, chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, liponic acid andderivatives thereof (for example dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose,propylthiouracil and other thiols (for example thioredoxine,glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and glycosyl, N-acetyl,methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl,alpha-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters thereof) and theirsalts, dilaurylthiodipropionate, distearylthiodipropionate,thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides,lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds(for example butionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, butioninesulfones, penta-, hexa- and hepta-thionine sulfoximine) in very smallcompatible dosages, also (metal) chelators (for examplealpha-hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrine),alpha-hydroxy acids (for example citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid),humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTAand derivatives thereof, unsaturated fatty acids and derivatives thereof(for example linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and derivativesthereof, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, vitamin C andderivatives thereof (for example ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbylphosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (for examplevitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) andconiferyl benzoate of benzoin resin, rutinic acid and derivativesthereof, glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol,carnosine, butyl hydroxytoluene, butyl hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacresin acid, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uricacid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof,superoxide dismutase, titanium dioxide (for example dispersions inethanol), zinc and derivatives thereof (for example ZnO, ZnSO₄),selenium and derivatives thereof (for example selenium methionine),stilbenes and derivatives thereof (for example stilbene oxide,trans-stilbene oxide) and derivatives of these active substancessuitable for the purposes of the invention (salts, esters, ethers,sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids).

Advantageous inorganic secondary light protection pigments are finelydispersed metal oxides and metal salts which are also mentioned in WO2005 123101 A1. The total quantity of inorganic pigments, in particularhydrophobic inorganic micro-pigments in the finished cosmeticpreparation according to the present invention is advantageously from0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10.0% by weight, in each casebased on the total weight of the preparation.

Also preferred are particulate UV filters or inorganic pigments, whichcan optionally be hydrophobed, can be used, such as the oxides oftitanium (TiO₂), zinc (ZnO), iron (Fe₂O₃), zirconium (ZrO₂), silicon(SiO₂), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminium (Al₂O₃), cerium (e.g. Ce₂O₃)and/or mixtures thereof.

Actives Modulating Skin and/or Hair Pigmentation

Preferred active ingredients for skin and/or hair lightening areselected from the group consisting of: kojic acid(5-hydroxy-2-hydroxymethyl-4-pyranone), kojic acid derivatives,preferably kojic acid dipalmitate, arbutin, ascorbic acid, ascorbic acidderivatives, preferably magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, hydroquinone,hydroquinone derivatives, resorcinol, resorcinol derivatives, preferably4-alkylresorcinols and 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-dihydroxybenzene(phenylethyl resorcinol), cyclohexylcarbamates (preferably one or morecyclohexyl carbamates disclosed in WO 2010/122178 and WO 2010/097480),sulfur-containing molecules, preferably glutathione or cysteine,alpha-hydroxy acids (preferably citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid),salts and esters thereof, N-acetyl tyrosine and derivatives, undecenoylphenylalanine, gluconic acid, chromone derivatives, preferably aloesin,flavonoids, 1-aminoethyl phosphinic acid, thiourea derivatives, ellagicacid, nicotinamide (niacinamide), zinc salts, preferably zinc chlorideor zinc gluconate, thujaplicin and derivatives, triterpenes, preferablymaslinic acid, sterols, preferably ergosterol, benzofuranones,preferably senkyunolide, vinyl guiacol, ethyl guiacol, dionic acids,preferably octodecene dionic acid and/or azelaic acid, inhibitors ofnitrogen oxide synthesis, preferably L-nitroarginine and derivativesthereof, 2,7-dinitroindazole or thiocitrulline, metal chelators(preferably alpha-hydroxy fatty acids, phytic acid, humic acid, bileacid, bile extracts, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof), retinoids, soymilk and extract, serine protease inhibitors or lipoic acid or othersynthetic or natural active ingredients for skin and hair lightening,the latter preferably used in the form of an extract from plants,preferably bearberry extract, rice extract, papaya extract, turmericextract, mulberry extract, bengkoang extract, nutgrass extract,liquorice root extract or constituents concentrated or isolatedtherefrom, preferably glabridin or licochalcone A, artocarpus extract,extract of rumex and ramulus species, extracts of pine species (pinus),extracts of vitis species or stilbene derivatives isolated orconcentrated therefrom, saxifrage extract, scutelleria extract, grapeextract and/or microalgae extract, in particular Tetraselmis suecicaExtract.

Preferred skin lighteners as component (b) are kojic acid andphenylethyl resorcinol as tyrosinase inhibitors, beta- andalpha-arbutin, hydroquinone, nicotinamide, dioic acid, Mg ascorbylphosphate and vitamin C and its derivatives, mulberry extract, Bengkoangextract, papaya extract, turmeric extract, nutgrass extract, licoriceextract (containing glycyrrhizin), alpha-hydroxy-acids,4-alkylresorcinols, 4-hydroxya nisole. These skin lighteners arepreferred due to their very good activity, in particular in combinationwith sclareolide according to the present invention. In addition, saidpreferred skin lighteners are readily available.

Advantageous skin and hair tanning active ingredients in this respectare substrates or substrate analogues of tyrosinase such as L-tyrosine,N-acetyl tyrosine, L-DOPA or L-dihydroxyphenylalanine, xanthinealkaloids such as caffeine, theobromine and theophyl-line andderivatives thereof, proopiomelanocortin peptides such as ACTH,alpha-MSH, peptide analogues thereof and other substances which bind tothe melanocortin receptor, peptides such as Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly,Lys-Ile-Gly-Arg-Lys or Leu-Ile-Gly-Lys, purines, pyrimidines, folicacid, copper salts such as copper gluconate, chloride or pyrrolidonate,1,3,4-oxadiazole-2-thiols such as5-pyrazin-2-yl-1,3,4-oxadiazole-2-thiol, curcumin, zinc diglycinate(Zn(Gly)2), manganese(II) bicarbonate complexes (“pseudocat-alases”) asdescribed for example in EP 0 584 178, tetrasubstituted cyclohexenederiva-tives as described for example in WO 2005/032501, isoprenoids asdescribed in WO 2005/102252 and in WO 2006/010661, melanin derivativessuch as Melasyn-100 and MelanZe, diacyl glycerols, aliphatic or cyclicdiols, psoralens, prostaglandins and ana-logues thereof, activators ofadenylate cyclase and compounds which activate the transfer ofmelanosomes to keratinocytes such as serine proteases or agonists of thePAR-2 receptor, extracts of plants and plant parts of the chrysanthemumspecies, san-guisorba species, walnut extracts, urucum extracts, rhubarbextracts, microalgae extracts, in particular Isochrysis galbana,trehalose, erythru-lose and dihydroxyacetone. Flavonoids which bringabout skin and hair tinting or brown-ing (e.g. quercetin, rhamnetin,kaempferol, fisetin, genistein, daidzein, chrysin and api-genin,epicatechin, diosmin and diosmetin, morin, quercitrin, naringenin,hesperidin, phloridzin and phloretin) can also be used.

The amount of the aforementioned examples of additional activeingredients for the modulation of skin and hair pigmentation (one ormore compounds) in the products according to the invention is thenpreferably 0.00001 to 30 wt. %, preferably 0.0001 to 20 wt. %,particularly preferably 0.001 to 5 wt. %, based on the total weight ofthe preparation.

Anti-Ageing Actives

In the context of the invention, anti-ageing or biogenic agents are, forexample antioxidants, matrix-metalloproteinase inhibitors (MMPI), skinmoisturizing agents, glycosaminglycan stimulkators, anti-inflammatoryagents, TRPV1 antagonists and plant extracts.

Antioxidants.

Suitable antioxidants encompass amino acids (preferably glycine,histidine, tyrosine, tryptophane) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles(preferably urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides, preferablyD,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and derivatives thereof(preferably anserine), carnitine, creatine, matrikine peptides(preferably lysyl-threonyl-threonyl-lysyl-serine) and palmitoylatedpentapeptides, carotenoids, carotenes (preferably alpha-carotene,beta-carotene, lycopene) and derivatives thereof, lipoic acid andderivatives thereof (preferably dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose,propyl thiouracil and other thiols (preferably thioredoxine,glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and glycosyl, N-acetyl,methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl,gamma-linoleyl, cholesteryl, glyceryl and oligoglyceryl esters thereof)and salts thereof, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof(preferably esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosidesand salts) and sulfoximine compounds (preferably buthioninesulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-,hexa-, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very small tolerated doses (e.g.pmol to μmol/kg), also (metal) chelators (preferably alpha-hydroxy fattyacids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin, alpha-hydroxy acids(preferably citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bileacid, bile extracts, tannins, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA andderivatives thereof), unsaturated fatty acids and derivatives thereof(preferably gamma-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acidand derivatives thereof, ubiquinone and derivatives thereof, ubiquinoland derivatives thereof, vitamin C and derivatives (preferably ascorbylpalmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate, ascorbyl glucoside),tocopherols and derivatives (preferably vitamin E acetate), vitamin Aand derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoicresin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, flavonoids and glycosylatedprecursors thereof, in particular quercetin and derivatives thereof,preferably alpha-glucosyl rutin, rosmarinic acid, carnosol, carnosolicacid, resveratrol, caffeic acid and derivatives thereof, sinapic acidand derivatives thereof, ferulic acid and derivatives thereof,curcuminoids, chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, retinoids,preferably retinyl palmitate, retinol or tretinoin, ursolic acid,levulinic acid, butyl hydroxytoluene, butyl hydroxyanisole,nordihydroguaiac acid, nordihydroguaiaretic acid,trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose andderivatives thereof, zinc and derivatives thereof (preferably ZnO,ZnSO₄), selenium and derivatives thereof (preferably seleniummethionine), superoxide dismutase, stilbenes and derivatives thereof(preferably stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives(salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides andlipids) of these cited active ingredients which are suitable accordingto the invention or extracts or fractions of plants having anantioxidant effect, preferably green tea, rooibos, honeybush, grape,rosemary, sage, melissa, thyme, lavender, olive, oats, cocoa, ginkgo,ginseng, liquorice, honeysuckle, sophora, pueraria, pinus, citrus,Phyllanthus emblica or St. John's wort, grape seeds, wheat germ,Phyllanthus emblica, coenzymes, preferably coenzyme Q10, plastoquinoneand menaquinone. Preferred antioxidants are selected from the groupconsisting of vitamin A and derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives,tocopherol and derivatives, preferably tocopheryl acetate, andubiquinone.

If vitamin E and/or derivatives thereof are used as the antioxidant(s),it is advantageous to choose their concentrations from the range fromabout 0.001 to about 10% b.w. based on the total weight of theformulation. If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes orderivatives thereof are used as the antioxidant(s), it is advantageousto choose their concentrations from the range from about 0.001 to aout10% b.w. based on the total weight of the formulation.

Matrix-Metalloproteinase Inhibitors (MMPI).

Preferred compositions comprise matrix-metalloproteinase inhibitors,especially those inhibiting matrix-metalloproteinases enzymaticallycleaving collagen, selected from the group consisting of: ursolic acid,retinyl palmitate, propyl gallate, precocenes,6-hydroxy-7-methoxy-2,2-dimethyl-1(2H)-benzopyran,3,4-dihydro-6-hydroxy-7-methoxy-2,2-dimethyl-1(2H)-benzopyran, benzamidi ne hydrochloride, the cysteine proteinase inhibitorsN-ethylmalemide and epsilon-amino-n-caproic acid of the serinproteaseinhibitors: phenylmethylsufonylfluoride, collhibin (company Pentapharm;INCI: hydrolysed rice protein), oenotherol (company Soliance; INCI:propylene glycol, aqua, Oenothera biennis root extract, ellagic acid andellagitannins, for example from pomegranate), phosphoramidonehinokitiol, EDTA, galardin, EquiStat (company Collaborative Group; applefruit extract, soya seed extract, ursolic acid, soya isoflavones andsoya proteins), sage extracts, MDI (company Atrium; INCI:glycosaminoglycans), fermiskin (company Silab/Mawi; INCI: water andlentinus edodes extract), actimp 1.9.3 (company Expanscience/Rahn; INCI:hydrolysed lupine protein), lipobelle soyaglycone (company Mibelle;INCI: alcohol, polysorbate 80, lecithin and soy isoflavones), extractsfrom green and black tea and further plant extracts, which are listed inWO 02 069992 A1 (see tables 1-12 there, incorporated herein byreference), proteins or glycoproteins from soya, hydrolysed proteinsfrom rice, pea or lupine, plant extracts which inhibit MMPs, preferablyextracts from shitake mushrooms, extracts from the leaves of theRosaceae family, sub-family Rosoideae, quite particularly extracts ofblackberry leaf (preferably as described in WO 2005 123101 A1,incorporated herein by reference) as e.g. SymMatrix (company Symrise,INCI: Maltodextrin, Rubus Fruticosus (Blackberry) Leaf Extract).Preferred actives of are selected from the group consisting of retinylpalmitate, ursolic acid, extracts from the leaves of the Rosaceaefamily, sub-family Rosoideae, genistein and daidzein.

Skin-Moisturizing Agents.

Preferred skin moisturizing agents are selected from the groupconsisting of alkane diols or alkane triols comprising 3 to 12 carbonatoms, preferably C₃-C₁₀-alkane diols and C₃-C₁₀-alkane triols. Morepreferably the skin moisturizing agents are selected from the groupconsisting of: glycerol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol,1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol and1,2-decanediol.

Glycosaminoglycan Stimulators.

Preferred compositions comprise substances stimulating the synthesis ofglycosaminoglycans selected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acidand derivatives or salts, Subliskin (Sederma, INCI: SinorhizobiumMeliloti Ferment Filtrate, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Lecithin),Hyalufix (BASF, INCI: Water, Butylene Glycol, Alpinia galanga leafextract, Xanthan Gum, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride), Stimulhyal(Soliance, INCI: Calcium ketogluconate), Syn-Glycan (DSM, INCI:Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate,Glycerin, Magnesium chloride), Kalpariane (Biotech Marine), DC Upregulex(Distinctive Cosmetic Ingredients, INCI: Water, Butylene Glycol,Phospholipids, Hydrolyzed Sericin), glucosamine, N-acetyl glucosamine,retinoids, preferably retinol and vitamin A, Arctium lappa fruitextract, Eriobotrya japonica extract, Genkwanin, N-Methyl-L-serine,(−)-alpha-bisabolol or synthetic alpha-bisabolol such as e.g.Dragosantol and Dragosantol 100 from Symrise, oat glucan, Echinaceapurpurea extract and soy protein hydrolysate. Preferred actives areselected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid and derivatives orsalts, retinol and derivatives, (−)-alpha-bisabolol or syntheticalpha-bisabolol such as e.g. Dragosantol and Dragosantol 100 fromSymrise, oat glucan, Echinacea purpurea extract, Sinorhizobium MelilotiFerment Filtrate, Calcium ketogluconate, Alpinia galanga leaf extractand tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate.

Anti-Inflammatory Agents.

The compositions may also contain anti-inflammatory and/or rednessand/or itch ameliorating ingredients, in particular steroidal substancesof the corticosteroid type selected from the group consisting ofhydrocortisone, dexamethasone, dexamethasone phosphate, methylprednisolone or cortisone, are advantageously used as anti-inflammatoryactive ingredients or active ingredients to relieve reddening anditching, the list of which can be extended by the addition of othersteroidal anti-inflammatories. Non-steroidal anti-inflammatories canalso be used. Examples which can be cited here are oxicams such aspiroxicam or tenoxicam; salicylates such as aspirin, disalcid, solprinor fendosal; acetic acid derivatives such as diclofenac, fenclofenac,indomethacin, sulindac, tolmetin or clindanac; fenamates such asmefenamic, meclofenamic, flufenamic or niflumic; propionic acidderivatives such as ibuprofen, naproxen, benoxaprofen or pyrazoles suchas phenylbutazone, oxyphenylbutazone, febrazone or azapropazone.Anthranilic acid derivatives, in particular avenanthramides described inWO 2004 047833 A1, are preferred anti-itch ingredients in a compositionaccording to the present invention.

Also useful are natural or naturally occurring anti-inflammatorymixtures of substances or mixtures of substances that alleviatereddening and/or itching, in particular extracts or fractions fromcamomile, Aloe vera, Commiphora species, Rubia species, willow,willow-herb, oats, calendula, arnica, St John's wort, honeysuckle,rosemary, Passiflora incarnata, witch hazel, ginger or Echinacea;preferably selected from the group consisting of extracts or fractionsfrom camomile, Aloe vera, oats, calendula, arnica, honeysuckle,rosemary, witch hazel, ginger or Echinacea, and/or pure substances,preferably alpha-bisabolol, apigenin, apigenin-7-glucoside, gingerols,shogaols, gingerdiols, dehydrogingerdiones, paradols, natural ornaturally occuring avenanthramides, preferably tranilast, avenanthramideA, avenanthramide B, avenanthramide C, non-natural or non-naturallyoccuring avenanthramides, preferably dihydroavenanthramide D,dihydroavenanthramide E, avenanthramide D, avenan-thramide E,avenanthramide F, boswellic acid, phytosterols, glycyrrhizin, glabridinand licochalcone A; preferably selected from the group consisting ofalpha-bisabolol, natural avenanthramides, non-natural avenanthramides,preferably dihydroavenanthramide D (as described in WO 2004 047833 A1),boswellic acid, phytosterols, glycyrrhizin, and licochalcone A, and/orallantoin, panthenol, lanolin, (pseudo-)ceramides [preferably Ceramide2, hydroxypropyl bispalmitamide MEA, cetyloxypropyl glycerylmethoxypropyl myristamide, N-(1-hexadecanoyl)-4-hydroxy-L-proline(1-hexadecyl) ester, hydroxyethyl palmityl oxyhydroxypropylpalmitamide], glycosphingolipids, phytosterols, chitosan, mannose,lactose and β-glucans, in particular 1,3-1,4-β-glucan from oats.

When bisabolol is used in the context of the present invention it can beof natural or synthetic origin, and is preferably “alpha-bisabolol”.Preferably, the bisabolol used is synthetically prepared or natural(−)-alpha-bisabolol and/or synthetic mixed-isomer alpha-bisabolol. Ifnatural (−)-alpha-bisabolol is used, this can also be employed as aconstituent of an essential oil or of a plant extract or of a fractionthereof, for example as a constituent of (fractions of) oil or extractsof camomile or of Vanillosmopsis (in particular Vanillosmopsiserythropappa or Vanillosmopsis arborea). Synthetic alpha-bisabolol isobtainable, for example, under the name “Dragosantol” from Symrise.

In case ginger extract is used in the context of the present invention,preferably extracts of the fresh or dried ginger root are used which areprepared by extraction with methanol, ethanol, iso-propanol, acetone,ethyl acetate, carbon dioxide (CO2), hexane, methylene chloride,chloroform or other solvents or solvent mixtures of comparable polarity.The extracts are characterized by the presence of active skinirritation-reducing amounts of constituents such as e.g. gingerols,shogaols, gingerdiols, dehydrogingerdiones and/or paradols.

TRPV1 Antagonists.

Suitable compounds which reduce the hypersensitivity of skin nervesbased on their action as TRPV1 antagonists, encompass e.g.trans-4-tert-butyl cyclohexanol as described in WO 2009 087242 A1, orindirect modulators of TRPV1 by an activation of the μ-receptor, e.g.acetyl tetrapeptide-15, are preferred.

Desquamating Agents.

The compositions may also contain desquamating agents (component b5) inamounts of about 0.1 to about 30% b.w. preferably about 0.5 to about 15%b.w., particularly preferably about 1 to about 10% b.w. based on thetotal weight of the preparation. The expression “desquamating agent” isunderstood to mean any compound capable of acting:

-   -   either directly on desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such        as β-hydroxy acids, in particular salicylic acid and its        derivatives (including 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid); α-hydroxy        acids, such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or        mandelic acids; urea; gentisic acid; oligofucoses; cinnamic        acid; extract of Sophora japonica; resveratrol and some        derivatives of jasmonic acid;    -   or on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or the        degradation of the corneodesmosomes, glycosidases, stratum        corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) or other proteases (trypsin,        chymotrypsin-like). There may be mentioned agents chelating        inorganic salts: EDTA; N-acyl-N,N′,N′-ethylenediaminetriacetic        acid; aminosulphonic compounds and in particular        (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane)sulphonic acid (HEPES);        derivatives of 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid        (procysteine); derivatives of alpha-amino acids of the glycine        type (as described in EP-0 852 949, and sodium methylglycine        diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name TRILON M);        honey; sugar derivatives such as 0-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and        N-acetylglucosamine; chestnut extracts such as those marketed by        the company SILAB under the name Recoverine®, prickly pear        extracts such as those marketed under the name Exfolactive® by        the company SILAB, or Phytosphingosine SLC® (phytosphingosine        grafted with a salicylic acid) marketed by the company Degussa.

Desquamating agents suitable for the invention may be chosen inparticular from the group comprising sulphonic acids, calcium chelators,α-hydroxy acids such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic ormandelic acids; ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as ascorbylglucoside and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate; nicotinamide; urea;(N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane)sulphonic acid (HEPES), β-hydroxyacids such as salicylic acid and its derivatives, retinoids such asretinol and its esters, retinal, retinoic acid and its derivatives,those described in the documents FR 2570377 A1, EP 0199636 A1, EP0325540 A1, EP 0402072 A1, chestnut or prickly pear extracts, inparticular marketed by SILAB; reducing compounds such as cysteine orcysteine precursors.

Desquamating agents which can be used are also nicotinic acid and itsesters and nicotinamide, also called vitamin B3 or vitamin PP, andascorbic acid and its precursors, as described in particular inapplication EP 1529522 A1.

Anti-Cellulite Agents.

Anti-cellulite agents and lipolytic agents are preferably selected fromthe group consisting of those described in WO 2007/077541, andbeta-adrenergic receptor agonists such as synephrine and itsderivatives, and cyclohexyl carbamates described in WO 2010/097479.Agents enhancing or boosting the activity of anti-cellulite agents, inparticular agents which stimulate and/or depolarise C nerve fibres, arepreferably selected from the group consisting of capsaicin andderivatives thereof, vanillyl-nonylamid and derivatives thereof,L-carnitine, coenzym A, isoflavonoides, soy extracts, ananas extract andconjugated linoleic acid.

Fat Enhancing Agents.

Formulations and products according to the present invention may alsocomprise one or more fat enhancing and/or adipogenic agents as well asagents enhancing or boosting the activity of fat enhancing agents. A fatenhancing agent is for example hydroxymethoxyphenylpropylmethylmethoxybenzofuran (trade name: Sym3D®).

Hair Growth Activators or Inhibitors

Formulations and products according to the present invention may alsocomprise one or more hair growth activators, i.e. agents to stimulatehair growth. Hair growth activators are preferably selected from thegroup consisting of pyrimidine derivatives such as2,4-diaminopyrimidine-3-oxide (Aminexil),2,4-diamino-6-piperidinopyrimidine-3-oxide (Minoxidil) and derivativesthereof, 6-amino-1,2-dihydro-1-hydroxy-2-imino-4-piperidinopyrimidineand its derivatives, xanthine alkaloids such as caffeine, theobromineand theophylline and derivatives thereof, quercetin and derivatives,dihydroquercetin (taxifolin) and derivatives, potassium channel openers,antiandrogenic agents, synthetic or natural 5-reductase inhibitors,nicotinic acid esters such as tocopheryl nicotinate, benzyl nicotinateand C1-C6 alkyl nicotinate, proteins such as for example the tripeptideLys-Pro-Val, diphencypren, hormons, finasteride, dutasteride, flutamide,bicalutamide, pregnane derivatives, progesterone and its derivatives,cyproterone acetate, spironolactone and other diuretics, calcineurininhibitors such as FK506 (Tacrolimus, Fujimycin) and its derivatives,Cyclosporin A and derivatives thereof, zinc and zinc salts, polyphenols,procyanidins, proanthocyanidins, phytosterols such as for examplebeta-sitosterol, biotin, eugenol, (±)-beta-citronellol, panthenol,glycogen for example from mussels, extracts from microorganisms, algae,plants and plant parts of for example the genera dandelion (Leontodon orTaraxacum), Orthosiphon, Vitex, Coffea, Paullinia, Theobroma, Asiasarum,Cucurbita or Styphnolobium, Serenoa repens (saw palmetto), Sophoraflavescens, Pygeum africanum, Panicum miliaceum, Cimicifuga racemosa,Glycine max, Eugenia caryophyllata, Cotinus coggygria, Hibiscusrosa-sinensis, Camellia sinensis, Ilex paraguariensis, Isochrysisgalbana, licorice, grape, apple, barley or hops or/nd hydrolysates fromrice or wheat.

Alternatively, formulations and products according to the presentinvention may comprise one or more hair growth inhibitors (as describedabove), i.e. agents to reduce or prevent hair growth. Hair growthinhibitors are preferably selected from the group consisting of activin,activin derivatives or activin agonists, ornithine decarboxylaseinhibitors such as alpha-difluoromethylornithine or pentacyclictriterpenes like for example ursolic acid, betulin, betulinic acid,oleanolic acid and derivatives thereof, 5alpha-reductase inhibitors,androgen receptor antagonists, S-adenosylmethionine decarboxylaseinhibitors, gamma-glutamyl transpeptidase inhibitors, transglutaminaseinhibitors, soybean-derived serine protease inhibitors, extracts frommicroorganisms, algae, different microalgae or plants and plant parts offor example the families Leguminosae, Solanaceae, Graminae,Asclepiadaceae or Cucurbitaceae, the genera Chondrus, Gloiopeltis,Ceramium, Durvillea, Glycine max, Sanguisorba officinalis, Calendulaofficinalis, Hamamelis virginiana, Arnica montana, Salix alba, Hypericumperforatum or Gymnema sylvestre.

Cooling Agents

The compositions may also contain one or more substances with aphysiological cooling effect (cooling agents), which are preferablyselected here from the following list: menthol and menthol derivatives(for example L-menthol, D-menthol, racemic menthol, isomenthol,neoisomenthol, neomenthol) menthylethers (for example(I-menthoxy)-1,2-propandiol, (1-menthoxy)-2-methyl-1,2-propandiol,1-menthyl-methylether), menthylesters (for example menthylformiate,menthylacetate, menthylisobutyrate, menthyllactates,L-menthyl-L-lactate, L-menthyl-D-lactate, menthyl-(2-methoxy)acetate,menthyl-(2-methoxyethoxy)acetate, menthylpyroglutamate),menthylcarbonates (for example menthylpropyleneglycolcarbonate,menthylethyleneglycolcarbonate, menthylglycerolcarbonate or mixturesthereof), the semi-esters of menthols with a dicarboxylic acid orderivatives thereof (for example mono-menthylsuccinate,mono-menthylglutarate, mono-menthylmalonate, O-menthyl succinic acidester-N,N-(dimethyl)amide, O-menthyl succinic acid ester amide),menthanecarboxylic acid amides (in this case preferablymenthanecarboxylic acid-N-ethylamide [WS3] orN^(α)-(menthanecarbonyl)glycinethylester [WS5], as described in U.S.Pat. No. 4,150,052, menthanecarboxylic acid-N-(4-cyanophenyl)amide ormenthanecarboxylic acid-N-(4-cyanomethylphenyl)amide as described in WO2005 049553 A1, methanecarboxylic acid-N-(alkoxyalkyl)amides), menthoneand menthone derivatives (for example L-menthone glycerol ketal),2,3-dimethyl-2-(2-propyl)-butyric acid derivatives (for example2,3-dimethyl-2-(2-propyl)-butyric acid-N-methylamide [WS23]), isopulegolor its esters (I-(−)-isopulegol, I-(−)-isopulegolacetate), menthanederivatives (for example p-menthane-3,8-diol), cubebol or synthetic ornatural mixtures, containing cubebol, pyrrolidone derivatives ofcycloalkyldione derivatives (for example3-methyl-2(1-pyrrolidinyl)-2-cyclopentene-1-one) ortetrahydropyrimidine-2-one (for example iciline or related compounds, asdescribed in WO 2004/026840), further carboxamides (for exampleN-(2-(pyridin-2-yl)ethyl)-3-p-menthanecarboxamide or related compounds),(1R,2S,5R)—N-(4-Methoxyphenyl)-5-methyl-2-(1-isopropyl)cyclohexane-carboxamide[WS12], oxamates (preferably those described in EP 2033688 A2).

Anti-Microbial Agents

Suitable anti-microbial agents are, in principle, all substanceseffective against Gram-positive bacteria, such as, for example,4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters,N-(4-chlorophenyl)-N′-(3,4-dichlorophenyl)urea,2,4,4′-trichloro-2′-hydroxy-diphenyl ether (triclosan),4-chloro-3,5-dimethyl-phenol, 2,2′-methylenebis(6-bromo-4-chlorophenol),3-methyl-4-(1-methylethyl)phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chloro-phenol,3-(4-chlorophenoxy)-1,2-propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate,chlorhexidine, 3,4,4′-trichlorocarbanilide (TTC), antibacterialfragrances, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, oil of cloves, menthol, mintoil, farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monocaprate, glycerolmonocaprylate, glycerol monolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprate (DMC),salicylic acid N-alkylamides, such as, for example, n-octylsalicylamideor n-decylsalicylamide.

Enzyme Inhibitors

Suitable enzyme inhibitors are, for example, esterase inhibitors. Theseare preferably trialkyl citrates, such as trimethyl citrate, tripropylcitrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and, in particular,triethyl citrate (Hydagen CAT). The substances inhibit enzyme activity,thereby reducing the formation of odour. Other substances which aresuitable esterase inhibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as,for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasterol andsitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and esters thereof,such as, for example, glutaric acid, monoethyl glutarate, diethylglutarate, adipic acid, monoethyl adipate, diethyl adipate, malonic acidand diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and esters thereof, suchas, for example, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or diethyltartrate, and zinc glycinate.

Odour Absorbers and Antiperspirant Active Agents

Suitable odour absorbers are substances which are able to absorb andlargely retain odour-forming compounds. They lower the partial pressureof the individual components, thus also reducing their rate ofdiffusion. It is important that perfumes must remain unimpaired in thisprocess. Odour absorbers are not effective against bacteria. Theycomprise, for example, as main constituent, a complex zinc salt ofricinoleic acid or specific, largely odour-neutral fragrances which areknown to the person skilled in the art as “fixatives”, such as, forexample, extracts of labdanum or styrax or certain abietic acidderivatives. The odour masking agents are fragrances or perfume oils,which, in addition to their function as odour masking agents, give thedeodorants their respective fragrance note. Perfume oils which may bementioned are, for example, mixtures of natural and syntheticfragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts from flowers, stems andleaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needlesand branches, and resins and balsams. Also suitable are animal products,such as, for example, civet and castoreum. Typical synthetic fragrancecompounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol,and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, forexample, benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. Theethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, and the aldehydesinclude, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde,hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones include, forexample, the ionones and methyl cedryl ketone, the alcohols includeanethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linaool,phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, and the hydrocarbons include mainlythe terpenes and balsams. Preference is, however, given to usingmixtures of different fragrances which together produce a pleasingfragrance note. Essential oils of relatively low volatility, which aremostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g.sage oil, camomile oil, oil of cloves, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamonleaf oil, linden flower oil, juniperberry oil, vetiver oil, olibanumoil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil. Preference is given tousing bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol,phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone,cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole,hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allyl amylglycolate, cyclovertal, lavandin oil, clary sage oil, β-damascone,geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix coeur,iso-E-super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid,geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilat, irotyl andfloramat alone or in mixtures.

Suitable astringent antiperspirant active ingredients are primarilysalts of aluminium, zirconium or of zinc. Such suitable antihydroticactive ingredients are, for example, aluminium chloride, aluminiumchlorohydrate, aluminium dichlorohydrate, aluminium sesquichlorohydrateand complex compounds thereof, e.g. with 1,2-propylene glycol, aluminiumhydroxyallantoinate, aluminium chloride tartrate, aluminium zirconiumtrichlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminiumzirconium pentachlorohydrate and complex compounds thereof, e.g. withamino acids, such as glycine.

Film Formers and Anti-Dandruff Agents

Standard film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystallinechitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acidseries, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid andsalts thereof and similar compounds.

Suitable antidandruff agents are Pirocton Olamin(1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2-(1H)-pyridinonemonoethanolamine salt), Baypival® (Climbazole), Ketoconazol®(4-acetyl-1-{4-[2-(2,4-dichlorophenyl)r-2-(1H-imidazol-1-ylmethyl)-1,3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphenyl}-piperazine,ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, colloidal sulfur, sulfurpolyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinol polyethoxylate,sulfur tar distillate, salicylic acid (or in combination withhexachlorophene), undecylenic acid, monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate Nasalt, Lamepon® UD (protein/undecylenic acid condensate), zincpyrithione, aluminium pyrithione and magnesium pyrithione/dipyrithionemagnesium sulfate.

Carriers and Hydrotropes

Preferred cosmetics carrier materials are solid or liquid at 25° C. and1013 mbar (including highly viscous substances) as for example glycerol,1,2-propylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol,1,3-butylene glycol, ethanol, water and mixtures of two or more of saidliquid carrier materials with water. Optionally, these preparationsaccording to the invention may be produced using preservatives orsolubilizers. Other preferred liquid carrier substances, which may be acomponent of a preparation according to the invention are selected fromthe group consisting of oils such as vegetable oil, neutral oil andmineral oil.

Preferred solid carrier materials, which may be a component of apreparation according to the invention are hydrocolloids, such asstarches, degraded starches, chemically or physically modified starches,dextrins, (powdery) maltodextrins (preferably with a dextrose equivalentvalue of 5 to 25, preferably of 10-20), lactose, silicon dioxide,glucose, modified celluloses, gum arabic, ghatti gum, traganth, karaya,carrageenan, pullulan, curdlan, xanthan gum, gellan gum, guar flour,carob bean flour, alginates, agar, pectin and inulin and mixtures of twoor more of these solids, in particular maltodextrins (preferably with adextrose equivalent value of 15-20), lactose, silicon dioxide and/orglucose.

In addition, hydrotropes, for example ethanol, isopropyl alcohol orpolyols, may be used to improve flow behaviour. Suitable polyolspreferably contain 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxylgroups. The polyols may contain other functional groups, more especiallyamino groups, or may be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are

-   -   glycerol;    -   alkylene glycols such as, for example, ethylene glycol,        diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene        glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight        of 100 to 1000 Dalton;    -   technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of        self-condensation of 1.5 to 10, such as for example technical        diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by        weight;    -   methylol compounds such as, in particular, trimethylol ethane,        trimethylol propane, trimethylol butane, pentaerythritol and        dipentaerythritol;    -   lower alkyl glucosides, particularly those containing 1 to 8        carbon atoms in the alkyl group, for example methyl and butyl        glucoside;    -   sugar alcohols containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example        sorbitol or mannitol,    -   sugars containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example glucose or        sucrose;    -   amino sugars, for example glucamine;    -   dialcoholamines, such as diethanolamine or        2-aminopropane-1,3-diol.

Preservatives

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehydesolution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the other classes ofcompounds listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Kosmetikverordnung(“Cosmetics Directive”).

Perfume Oils and Fragrances

Suitable perfume oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic perfumes.Natural perfumes include the extracts of blossoms (lily, lavender, rose,jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli,petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel(bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (nutmeg, angelica, celery, cardamom,costus, iris, calmus), woods (pinewood, sandalwood, guaiac wood,cedarwood, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemon grass, sage,thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), resins andbalsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animalraw materials, for example civet and beaver, may also be used. Typicalsynthetic perfume compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde,ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Examples of perfume compounds ofthe ester type are benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate,p-tert.butyl cyclohexylacetate, linalyl acetate, dimethyl benzylcarbinyl acetate, phenyl ethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzylformate, ethylmethyl phenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate,styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. Ethers include, for example,benzyl ethyl ether while aldehydes include, for example, the linearalkanals containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal,citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal,lilial and bourgeonal. Examples of suitable ketones are the ionones,α-isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone. Suitable alcohols areanethol, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool,phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol. The hydrocarbons mainly include theterpenes and balsams. However, it is preferred to use mixtures ofdifferent perfume compounds which, together, produce an agreeableperfume. Other suitable perfume oils are essential oils of relativelylow volatility which are mostly used as aroma components. Examples aresage oil, camomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leafoil, lime-blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil,galbanum oil, ladanum oil and lavendin oil. The following are preferablyused either individually or in the form of mixtures: bergamot oil,dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol,hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde,linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice,citrus oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal,lavendin oil, clary oil, damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexylsalicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldeingamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide,romillat, irotyl and floramat.

Dyes

Suitable dyes are any of the substances suitable and approved forcosmetic purposes as listed, for example, in the publication“Kosmetische Färbemittel” of the Farbstoffkommission der DeutschenForschungsgemeinschaft, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pages 81 to 106.Examples include cochineal red A (C.I. 16255), patent blue V (C.I.42051), indigotin (C.I. 73015), chlorophyllin (C.I. 75810), quinolineyellow (C.I. 47005), titanium dioxide (C.I. 77891), indanthrene blue RS(C.I. 69800) and madder lake (C.I. 58000). Luminol may also be presentas a luminescent dye. Advantageous coloured pigments are for exampletitanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (e.g. Fe₂O₃Fe₃O₄, FeO(OH)) and/ortin oxide. Advantageous dyes are for example carmine, Berlin blue,chromium oxide green, ultramarine blue and/or manganese violet.

Preparations

Preferred compositions according to the present inventions are selectedfrom the group of products for treatment, protecting, care and cleansingof the skin and/or hair or as a make-up product, preferably as aleave-on product (meaning that the one or more compounds of formula (I)stay on the skin and/or hair for a longer period of time, compared torinse-off products, so that the moisturizing and/or anti-ageing and/orwound healing promoting action thereof is more pronounced).

The formulations according to the invention are preferably in the formof an emulsion, e.g. W/O (water-in-oil), 0/W (oil-in-water), W/O/W(water-in-oil-in-water), 0/W/0 (oil-in-water-in-oil) emulsion, PITemulsion, Pickering emulsion, emulsion with a low oil content, micro- ornanoemulsion, a solution, e.g. in oil (fatty oils or fatty acid esters,in particular C₆-C₃₂ fatty acid C₂-C₃₀ esters) or silicone oil,dispersion, suspension, creme, lotion or milk, depending on theproduction method and ingredients, a gel (including hydrogel,hydrodispersion gel, oleogel), spray (e.g. pump spray or spray withpropellant) or a foam or an impregnating solution for cosmetic wipes, adetergent, e.g. soap, synthetic detergent, liquid washing, shower andbath preparation, bath product (capsule, oil, tablet, salt, bath salt,soap, etc.), effervescent preparation, a skin care product such as e.g.an emulsion (as described above), ointment, paste, gel (as describedabove), oil, balsam, serum, powder (e.g. face powder, body powder), amask, a pencil, stick, roll-on, pump, aerosol (foaming, non-foaming orpost-foaming), a deodorant and/or antiperspirant, mouthwash and mouthrinse, a foot care product (including keratolytic, deodorant), an insectrepellent, a sunscreen, aftersun preparation, a shaving product,aftershave balm, pre- and aftershave lotion, a depilatory agent, a haircare product such as e.g. shampoo (including 2-in-1 shampoo,anti-dandruff shampoo, baby shampoo, shampoo for dry scalps,concentrated shampoo), conditioner, hair tonic, hair water, hair rinse,styling creme, pomade, perm and setting lotion, hair spray, styling aid(e.g. gel or wax), hair smoothing agent (detangling agent, relaxer),hair dye such as e.g. temporary direct-dyeing hair dye, semi-permanenthair dye, permanent hair dye, hair conditioner, hair mousse, eye careproduct, make-up, make-up remover or baby product.

The formulations according to the invention are particularly preferablyin the form of an emulsion, in particular in the form of a W/O, O/W,W/O/W, O/W/O emulsion, PIT emulsion, Pickering emulsion, emulsion with alow oil content, micro- or nanoemulsion, a gel (including hydrogel,hydrodispersion gel, oleogel), a solution e.g. in oil (fatty oils orfatty acid esters, in particular C₆-C₃₂ fatty acid C₂-C₃₀ esters)) orsilicone oil, or a spray (e.g. pump spray or spray with propellant).

Auxiliary substances and additives can be included in quantities of 5 to99% b.w., preferably 10 to 80% b.w., based on the total weight of theformulation. The amounts of cosmetic or dermatological auxiliary agentsand additives and perfume to be used in each case can easily bedetermined by the person skilled in the art by simple trial and error,depending on the nature of the particular product.

The preparations can also contain water in a quantity of up to 99% b.w.,preferably 5 to 80% b.w., based on the total weight of the preparation.

Medicament

Another object of the present invention refers to a medicamentcomprising an anti-pollution agent selected from the group consisting ofginger root CO2 extract,E/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one, sclareolide,purple coneflower pressed juice, especially preferred a ginger root CO2extract or a preferred binary or ternary mixture as describedaforementioned for protecting, preventing, treating and/or curing humanskin and/or hair from disorders and dysfunctions associated with

-   (a) air pollution induced gene expression, and/or-   (b) gene expression induced or inducible by polycyclic aromatic    hydrocarbons, and/or-   (c) air pollution-induced or air pollution-inducible skin damage.

In particular, the protection and prevention from air pollution induceddisorders and dysfunctions to skin and/or hair especially refers to theinhibition of the induction of

1) POMC gene, and therefore protects skin cells against excessivemelanin formation; and/or2) MMP1 (matrixmetalloproteinase-1) in the skin to protect the skinagainst increased formation of wrinkles; and/or3) IL-6 (interleukin-6) to protect skin cells against inflammation aswell as pigment spot formation, wherein the inflammation is inparticular not based on fungal infection and/or4) CYPA1 gene expression to protect skin cells against damages due toAhR activation, particularly particle induced CYP1A1 gene expression.

Non-Therapeutical Method

Another object of the present invention refers to a non-therapeuticalmethod for protecting human skin and/or hair against air pollutioninduced damages by applying an effective amount of at least oneanti-pollution agent selected from the group consisting of ginger rootCO2 extract, E/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one,sclareolide, purple coneflower pressed juice, especially preferred aginger root CO2 extract or a preferred binary or ternary mixture asdescribed aforementioned.

Preferably 0.1 mg/cm² to about 5 mg/cm², preferably 2 mg/cm² to 3 mg/cm²of a formulation containing from about 0.1% by weight to 0.5% by weight,preferably from 0.3% by weight to 0.5% by weight of said active agentsof the present invention, are applied to human skin and/or hair, whichis an effective amount of about 8 μg/cm² to about 10 μg/cm² of saidagents.

Use

A final object of the present invention is directed to the use of ananti-pollution agent selected from the group consisting of ginger rootCO2 extract E/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one,sclareolide, purple coneflower pressed juice, especially preferred aginger root CO2 extract or a preferred binary or ternary mixture asdescribed aforementioned for protecting human skin and/or hair againstair pollution.

In particular, the protection of human skin and/or hair against airpollution is directed to air pollution induced through the induction ofcertain genes, which lead to melanin formation and/or wrinkle formationand/or inflammation, respectively pigment spot formation, wherein theinflammation is in particular not based on fungal infection, and/ordiseases associated with AhR activation measured as CYP1A1 geneexpression upregulation, particularly particle induced CYP1A1 geneexpression.

Thus more preferably the invention is directed to the use of ananti-pollution agent selected from the group consisting of ginger rootCO2 extract, E/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one,sclareolide, purple coneflower pressed juice, especially preferred aginger root CO2 extract or a preferred binary or ternary mixture asdescribed aforementioned for protecting and/or inhibiting and/orreducing of disorders and dysfunctions of human skin and hair relatedto, respectively associated with the induction of POMC gene and/or, MMP1gene and/or IL-6 gene, and/or particle induced CYP1A1 gene expression,particularly preferred hereby is ginger root CO2 extract.

A particular preferred aspect of the present invention is the use of apreferred binary or ternary mixture as described above for protectingand/or inhibiting and/or reducing of disorders and dysfunctions of humanskin and hair related to, respectively associated with the induction ofPOMC gene expression and/or, MMP1 gene expression and/or IL-6 geneexpression, and/or particle induced CYP1A1 gene expression, particularlypreferred is a binary mixture comprising ginger root CO2 extract andsclareolide or E/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-oneand particularly preferred is a binary mixture comprising ginger rootCO2 extract and sclareolide.

Preferably 0.1 mg/cm² to about 5 mg/cm², preferably 2 mg/cm² to 3 mg/cm²of a formulation containing from about 0.1% by weight to 0.5% by weight,preferably from 0.3% by weight to 0.5% by weight of said active agentsof the present invention, are applied to human skin and/or hair, whichis an effective amount of about 8 μg/cm² to about 10 μg/cm² of saidagents.

Another object of the invention is the use of a compound selected fromginger root CO2 extract,E/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one, sclareolide,purple coneflower pressed juice, especially preferred a ginger root CO2extract or a binary mixture as listed aforementioned or a ternarymixture as listed aforementioned as anti-pollution agent, respectivelyanti-pollution mixture for protecting human skin and/or hair, especiallyprotecting and/or inhibiting and/or reducing of disorders anddysfunctions of human skin and hair related to, respectively associatedwith the induction of POMC gene expression and/or, MMP1 gene expressionand/or IL-6 gene expression and/or particle induced CYP1A1 geneexpression. Particularly preferred is ginger root CO2 extract or abinary mixture comprising ginger root CO2 extract and sclareolide orE/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one or alsopreferred is a ternary mixture comprising ginger root CO2 extract andsclareolide and purple coneflower pressed juice.

Further object of the present invention is a non-therapeutical use of atleast an agent selected from the group consisting of ginger root CO2extract, E/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one,sclareolide, purple coneflower pressed juice, especially preferred aginger root CO2 extract or a binary mixture or a ternary mixture ofthese agents as described aforementioned in a cosmetic composition, inan amount from about 0.01% by weight to about 2.5% by weight, preferablyfrom about 0.05% by weight to about 1.0% by weight, as anti-pollutionagent, respectively anti-pollution mixture for protecting human skin andhair, especially protecting and/or inhibiting and/or reducing ofdisorders and dysfunctions of human skin and hair related to,respectively associated with the induction of POMC gene expressionand/or, MMP1 gene expression and/or IL-6 gene expression and/or particleinduced CYP1A1 gene expression. Particularly preferred is ginger rootCO2 extract or a binary mixture comprising ginger root CO2 extract andsclareolide or E/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-oneor also preferred is a ternary mixture comprising ginger root CO2extract and sclareolide and purple coneflower pressed juice.

EXAMPLES Example 1 Model Particles

Gene expression or protein biosynthesis, respectively, were induced bydifferent model particles. SRM 1650b and SRM 2975 are surrogates forauthentic street particulate matter (Danielson et al, 2008). Fine carbonblack is a model particle for indoor pollution, e.g. particles fromlaser printers. The details are set out in Table 1:

TABLE 1 Model particles applied in vitro to induce gene expression orprotein biosynthesis Type Name Source Diesel exhaust particle SRM1650bNational Institute of Standards and Technology, Gaithersburg, MD, USADiesel exhaust particle SRM2975 National Institute of Standards andTechnology, Gaithersburg, MD, USA Urban airborne particles SRM1649bNational Institute of Standards and Technology, Gaithersburg, MD, USAFine carbon black Huber 990 Evonik Industries, Essen, Germany

Example 2 Anti-Air Pollution Activity ofE/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one

Adult human epidermal keratinocytes were cultured in keratinocyte mediumwithout BPE and without EGF for 24 h prior to addition of modelparticles (see table 1.1). The model particles were suspended inphosphate buffered saline and were sonicated for 1 min and then directlyadded to the keratinocytes at 1.5 μg/cm².E/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one (BDDI) has beendissolved in DMSO and diluted in medium. Solutions containing thecompound with maximal 0.1% DMSO were applied 2 h prior to treatment withthe model particles. Gene expression was analyzed via qRT-PCR. For eachgene, a specific PCR primer pair was designed as compiled in Table 2:

TABLE 2 Specific primer pairs for RT-PCR (forward/reverse) 18S5′-GCCGCTAGAGGTGAAATTCTTG-3′ 5′-CATTCTTGGCAAATGCTTTCG′-3′ CYP1A15′-AGATGGTCAAGGAGCACTACAAAA-3′ 5′-GCTCAATCAGGCTGTCTGTGAT-3′ IL-65′-CCTCGAGCCCACCGGGAACG-3′ 5′-AACTGGACCGAAGGCGCTTGTG-3′ POMC5′-TGGAAGTGCGTGGCTGGT-3′ 5′-TGCACTCCAGCAGGTTGCT-3′ MMP15′-TGAAAGGTGGACCAACAATTT-3′ 5′-CCAAGAGAATGGCCGAGTTC-3′ CYP1A1:cytochrome P450 1A1; IL-6: Interleukin 6; POMC: proopiomelanocortin;MMP1: matrix metalloproteinase 1

The following Tables 3 and 4 show the results for CYP1A1 gene expressionafter induction with outdoor and indoor particles, Table 5 POMC, IL-6and MMP1 expression.

TABLE 3 CYP1A1 gene expression after induction with outdoor particlesCompound Time Noxae Particle conc. CYP1A1 Induction mean ± SE NHEK:adult, female, Asian untreated 1 6 h SRM1650 1.5 μg/cm2 5.33 ± 0.07 * 10μM BDDI 6 h SRM1650 1.5 μg/cm2 1.83 ± 0.03 + 24 h SRM1650 1.5 μg/cm216.53 ± 0.98  * 10 μM BDDI 24 h SRM1650 1.5 μg/cm2 4.17 ± 0.09 +untreated 1 6 h SRM2975 1.5 μg/cm2 2.07 ± 0.07 * 10 μM BDDI 6 h SRM29751.5 μg/cm2  0.05 ± 0.0003 + 24 h SRM2975 1.5 μg/cm2 4.90 ± 0.17 * 10 μMBDDI 24 h SRM2975 1.5 μg/cm2 0.01 ± 0.00 + NHEK: adult, female,Caucasian untreated 1 6 h SRM1650 1.5 μg/cm2 2.90 ± 0.12 * 10 μM BDDI 6h SRM1650 1.5 μg/cm2 0.02 ± 0.00 + 24 h SRM1650 1.5 μg/cm2 23.23 ±0.64  * 10 μM BDDI 24 h SRM1650 1.5 μg/cm2 8.77 ± 0.09 + untreated 1 6 hSRM2975 1.5 μg/cm2 1.03 ± 0.03 n.s. 10 μM BDDI 6 h SRM2975 1.5 μg/cm20.20 ± 0.00 + 24 h SRM2975 1.5 μg/cm2 5.10 ± 0.06 * 10 μM BDDI 24 hSRM2975 1.5 μg/cm2 0.60 ± 0.06 + * significant versus untreated, p <0.05; + significant versus stimulated control (SRM1650b), p < 0.05; n.s.not significant

TABLE 4 CYP1A1 gene expression after induction with indoor particlesCompound Time Noxae Particle conc. Induction mean ± SE untreated 1 6 hHuber990 1.5 μg/cm2 2.70 ± 0.00 * 10 μM BDDI 6 h Huber990 1.5 μg/cm20.05 ± 0.00 + 24 h  Huber990 1.5 μg/cm2 2.90 ± 0.00 * 10 μM BDDI 24 h Huber990 1.5 μg/cm2 0.20 ± 0.00 + * significant versus untreated, p <0.05; + significant versus stimulated control (SRM1650b), p < 0.05

TABLE 5 POMC, IL-6 and MMP1 gene expression Comp. c. Noxae POMC 6 h IL-66 h MMP1 24 h Control 1 1 1 SRM1650b 1.5 ± 0.031 * 1.4 ± 0.041 * 1.3 ±0.03  * BDDI 10 μM SRM1650b 0.9 ± 0.001 + 0.5 ± 0.01  n.s. 0.5 ± 0.022 +BDDI 2.5 μM SRM1650b 1.1 ± 0.02  + 0.6 ± 0.006 n.s. 0.8 ± 0.016 + BDDI 1μM SRM1650b 0.9 ± 0.018 + 0.9 ± 0.067 n.s. 0.7 ± 0.014 + * significantversus untreated, p < 0.05; + significant versus stimulated control(SRM1650b), p < 0.05

E/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one was capable toinhibit particle induced Cyp1A1 gene expression. It was shown for indooras well as outdoor model particles.E/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one was alsocapable to inhibit particle induced POMC, IL-6 and MMP1 gene expression.

Example 3 Anti-Air Pollution Activity of Sclareolide

Adult human epidermal keratinocytes were cultured in keratinocyte mediumwithout BPE and without EGF for 24 h prior to addition of modelparticles (see table 1.1). The model particles were suspended inphosphate buffered saline and were sonicated for 1 min and then directlyadded to the keratinocytes at 1.5 μg/cm². Sclareolide has been dissolvedin DMSO and diluted in medium. Solutions containing the compound withmaximal 0.1% DMSO were applied 2 h prior to treatment with the modelparticles. Gene expression was analyzed via qRT-PCR. For each gene, aspecific PCR primer pair was designed (see Table 2). Table 6 compilesthe results for sclareolide altered POMC gene expression.

TABLE 6 Sclareolide altered POMC gene expression Compound conc. noxaePOMC 24 h untreated 1 SRM1650b 1.50 ± 0.06 * Sclareolide 10 μM SRM1650b1.03 ± 0.07 + SRM2975 1.30 ± 0.00 * Sclareolide 10 μM SRM2975 0.73 ±0.06 + * significant versus untreated, p < 0.05; + significant versusstimulated control (SRM1650b), p < 0.05

Sclareolide was capable to inhibit particle induced POMC geneexpression.

Example 4a Anti-Air Pollution Activity of Ginger Root CO2 Extract

I) Adult human epidermal keratinocytes were cultured in keratinocytemedium without BPE and without EGF for 24 h prior to addition of modelparticles (see table 1.1). The model particles were suspended inphosphate buffered saline and were sonicated for 1 min and then directlyadded to the keratinocytes at 1.5 μg/cm². Ginger root CO2 extract hasbeen dissolved in DMSO and diluted in medium. Solutions containing thecompound with maximal 0.1% DMSO were applied 2 h prior to treatment withthe model particles. Gene expression was analyzed via qRT-PCR. For eachgene, a specific PCR primer pair was designed (see Table 2). Table 7compiles the results for ginger root CO2 extract altered POMC and IL-6gene expression

TABLE 7 Ginger root CO2 extract altered POMC and IL-6 gene expressionCompound conc. noxae POMC 6 h IL-6 6 h untreated 1 1 SRM1650b 1.5 ±0.031 * 1.4 ± 0.041 * ginger root 0.0001% SRM1650b 1.1 ± 0.017 + 0.5 ±0.013 + CO2 extract ginger root 0.00002% SRM1650b 0.8 ± 0.016 + 0.8 ±0.015 + CO2 extract ginger root 0.000004% SRM1650b 0.8 ± 0.048 + 0.9 ±0.018 + CO2 extract * significant versus untreated, <0.05; + significantversus stimulated control (SRM1650b), <0.05

Ginger root CO₂ extract was capable to inhibit particle induced POMC andIL-6 gene expression.

II) HaCaT keratinocytes were cultured in RPMI for 24 h prior to additionof model particles (see table 1.1). The model particles were suspendedin phosphate buffered saline and were sonicated for 1 min and thendirectly added to the HaCaT keratinocytes at 3.75 μg/cm2. Ginger rootCO2 extract has been dissolved in DMSO and diluted in medium. Solutionscontaining the compound with maximal 0.1% DMSO were applied 2 h prior totreatment with the model particles. Table 8 compiles the results forginger root CO2 extract altered IL-1 alpha, IL-6 and IL-8 proteinexpression.

TABLE 8 Ginger root CO2 extract altered IL-1 alpha, IL-6 and IL-8protein expression Compound conc. noxae IL-1 alpha, 6 h untreated  1.59± 0.31 stimulated control SRM1650b  3.93 ± 0.53 ginger root CO2 extract0.00025% SRM1650b  2.55 ± 0.50 ginger root CO2 extract 0.000025%SRM1650b  3.18 ± 0.47 ginger root CO2 extract 0.0000025% SRM1650b  4.09± 0.63 Compound conc. noxae IL-6, 6 h untreated  4.92 ± 0.41 stimulatedcontrol SRM1650b 34.13 ± 2.22 ginger root CO2 extract 0.00025% SRM1650b 9.42 ± 0.56 ginger root CO2 extract 0.000025% SRM1650b 21.99 ± 1.34ginger root CO2 extract 0.0000025% SRM1650b 38.64 ± 3.23 Compound conc.noxae IL-8, 6 h untreated 14.40 ± 1.56 stimulated control SRM1650b 58.34± 2.45 ginger root CO2 extract 0.00025% SRM1650b 19.28 ± 1.95 gingerroot CO2 extract 0.000025% SRM1650b 45.08 ± 2.71 ginger root CO2 extract0.0000025% SRM1650b 58.63 ± 3.38

Ginger root CO2 extract was capable to inhibit particle induced IL-1alpha, IL-6 and IL-8 protein expression.

Example 4b Anti-Air Pollution Activity of Ginger Root CO2 Extract onHair

Hair follicles from human skin were micro-dissected and maintained inculture medium for 20 days. The model particles SRM1649b were suspended,sonicated and added in a concentration of 0.1 mg/ml to the hairfollicles. Ginger root CO2 extract was added 1 day before stimulationwith model pollutant. The hair follicle lengthening was studied by imageanalysis and the hair follicle survival was estimated by morphologicalobservations of the hair bulbs.

TABLE 9 Ginger root CO2 extract altered hair follicle apoptosis(especially preferred a ginger root CO2 extract) noxae day 8 day 12 day16 day 20 untreated 0%-10%  8%-25% 8%-33% 50% 84% stimulated controlSRM1649b 5%-25% 60%-95% 90%-100% 90%-100% 5 ppm ginger root SRM1649b0%-15% 10%-60% 15%-70%  50%-100% CO2 extract 0.5 ppm ginger rootSRM1649b 0%-25% 30%-95% 40%-95%  70%-100% CO2 extract

Ginger root CO2 extract was capable to protect against particle inducedapoptosis of hair follicles.

TABLE 10 Ginger root CO2 extract altered lengthening of hair folliclescompared to day 0 [μm] noxae day 3 day 6 day 10 day 13 untreated 907-9861309-1605 2146-2324 2327-2831 stimulated control SRM1649b 326-437480-702 732-868 802-877 5 ppm ginger root SRM1649b 597-913 1011-13371827-2229 2198-2672 CO2 extract 0.5 ppm ginger root SRM1649b 398-526517-832  813-1115 1353-1887 CO2 extract

Ginger root CO2 extract was capable to protect against particle inducedreduction in hair follicle lengthening

Example 5 Anti-Air Pollution Activity of Purple Coneflower Pressed Juice

Adult human epidermal keratinocytes were cultured in keratinocyte mediumwithout BPE and without EGF for 24 h prior to addition of modelparticles (see table 1.1). The model particles were suspended inphosphate buffered saline and were sonicated for 1 min and then directlyadded to the keratinocytes at 1.5 μg/cm². Purple coneflower pressedjuice has been dissolved directly in medium. The solutions were applied2 h prior to treatment with the model particles. Gene expression wasanalyzed via qRT-PCR. For each gene, a specific PCR primer pair wasdesigned (see Table 2). Table 11 compiles the results for purpleconeflower pressed juice altered POMC and IL-6 gene expression

TABLE 11 Purple coneflower pressed juice altered POMC and IL-6 geneexpression Compound conc. noxae POMC 24 h IL-6 6 h untreated 1 1SRM1650b 1.56 ± 0.07 * 1.39 ± 0.01 * purple 0.01% SRM1650b  0.34 ±0.006 + 1.06 ± 0.03 + coneflower pressed juice purple 0.002% SRM1650b0.36 ± 0.01 + 1.26 ± 0.03 + coneflower pressed juice purple 0.0004%SRM1650b 0.44 ± 0.02 + 0.49 ± 0.01 + coneflower pressed juice *significant versus untreated, <0.05; + significant versus stimulatedcontrol (SRM1650b), <0.05

Purple coneflower pressed juice was capable to inhibit particle inducedPOMC and IL-6 gene expression.

Example 6 Anti-Air Pollution Activity of a Binary Mixture

Adult human epidermal keratinocytes were cultured in keratinocyte mediumwithout BPE and without EGF for 24 h prior to addition of modelparticles (see table 1.1). The model particles were suspended inphosphate buffered saline and were sonicated for 1 min and then directlyadded to the keratinocytes at 1.5 mg/cm². A mixture of ginger root CO2extract and sclareloide has been dissolved directly in medium. Thesolutions were applied 2 h prior to treatment with the model particles.Gene expression was analyzed via qRT-PCR. For each gene, a specific PCRprimer pair was designed (see Table 2). Table 12 compiles the resultsfor purple coneflower pressed juice altered POMC and IL-6 geneexpression

TABLE 12 Binary mixture of ginger root CO2 extract and sclareloidealtered POMC and IL-6 gene expression Compound conc. noxae POMC 6 h IL-66 h untreated 1 1 SRM1650b 1.5 ± 0.03 *  1.4 ± 0.041 * Binary mixture0.003% SRM1650b 0.7 ± 0.02 + 0.8 ± 0.02 + Binary mixture 0.0001%SRM1650b 1.0 ± 0.02 + 0.8 ± 0.01 + Binary mixture 0.00003% SRM1650b 0.9± 0.02 + 0.9 ± 0.02 + * significant versus untreated, <0.05; +significant versus stimulated control (SRM1650b), <0.05

Binary mixture was capable to inhibit particle induced POMC and IL-6gene expression.

Examples 7 TO 17: Skin and Hair Care Preparations

In the following the present invention is illustrated in more detail byvarious formulation examples:

7=Skin Care Gel (SPF 6) 8=Sun Protection Lotion SPF 24 (UVA/UVB Balance)9=Tinted Anti-aging Balm, SPF 15 10=Body Lotion, SPF 15 11=Skin SoothingNight Cream O/W 12=Cream W/O 13=Skin Care Ampoule 14=Skin Oil 15=Shower& Shampoo 16=Tinted Skin Care Stick SPF 50 17=Hair Gel

In Formulation Examples 7-17 the following two perfume oils PFO1 andPFO2 were each used as fragrance (DPG=dipropylene glycol).

TABLE A Perfume oil PFO1 with rose smell (amounts in parts b.w.)Component Amount Acetophenone, 10% in DPG 10.00 n-Undecanal 5.00Aldehyde C14, so-called (peach aldehyde) 15.00 Allylamyl glycolate, 10%in DPG 20.00 Amyl salicylate 25.00 Benzyl acetate 60.00 Citronellol80.00 d-Limonene 50.00 Decenol trans-9 15.00 Dihydromyrcenol 50.00Dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate 30.00 Diphenyloxide 5.00 Eucalyptol 10.00Geraniol 40.00 Nerol 20.00 Geranium oil 15.00 Hexenol cis-3, 10% in DPG5.00 Hexenyl salicylate cis-3 20.00 Indole, 10% in DPG 10.00Alpha-ionone 15.00 Beta-ionone 5.00 Lilial ®(2-methyl-3-(4-tert-butyl-phenyl)propanal) 60.00 Linalool 40.00Methylphenyl acetate 10.00 Phenylethyl alcohol 275.00 Styrolyl acetate20.00 Terpineol 30.00 Tetrahydrolinalool 50.00 Cinnamyl alcohol 10.00Total: 1,000.00

TABLE B Perfume oil PFO2 with white blossom and musk smell (amounts inparts b.w.) Component Amount Benzyl acetate 60.00 Citronellyl acetate60.00 Cyclamenaldehyde (2-methyl-3-(4-isopropylphenyl)propanal 20.00Dipropylene glycol (DPG) 60.00 Ethyllinalool 40.00 Florol(2-isobutyl-4-methyltetrahydro-2H-pyran-4-ol) 30.00 Globanone ®[(E/Z)-8-cyclohexadecen-1-one] 180.00 Hedione ® (methyldihydrojasmonate)140.00 Hexenyl salicylate, cis-3 10.00 Vertocitral(2,4-dimethyl-3-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde) 5.00 Hydratropaaldehyde, 10%in DPG 5.00 Isodamascone (1-(2,4,4-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-yl)-2- 5.00buten-1-one, 10% in DPG Isomuscone (cyclohexadecanone) 40.00Jacinthaflor (2-methyl-4-phenyl-1,3-dioxolane) 10.00 Cis-jasmone, 10% inDPG 20.00 Linalool 50.00 Linalyl acetate 30.00 Methyl benzoate, 10% inDPG 25.00 para-Methyl cresol, 10% in DPG 10.00 Nerol 20.00Phenylpropylaldehyde 5.00 2-Phenylethyl alcohol 82.00 Tetrahydrogeraniol13.00 2,2-Dimethyl-3-cyclohexyl-1-propanol 80.00 Total: 1,000.00

TABLE 9 Air pollution protecting compositions Ingredients INCI-Name 7 89 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 SymHelios ®1031 Benzylidene 0.5 0.3 0.1 0.50.5 Dimethoxydimethyl- indanone Sclareolide Sclareolide 0.1 0.5 0.05 0.1SymFinity ® 1298 Echinacea 0.4 0.5 Purpurea Extract SymVital ® Zingiber0.05 0.1 0.2 0.1 0.2 AgeRepair 3040 Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract (−)alpha Bisabolol Bisabolol 0.1 0.2 0.1 nat. Abil 350 Dimethicone 2Actipone ® Glycerin, Water 1 Laminaria (Aqua), Laminaria Saccharina GWSaccharina Extract Aloe Vera Gel Aloe Barbadensis 1 Conc. 10:1 LeafJuice Aluminium Aluminium 1.2 Stearate Stearate Amaze XT Dehydroxanthan1.4 Gum beta-Arbutin Arbutin 0.5 Betulin 90% (1079) Betulin 0.15Biotive ® L-Arginine Arginine 3.2 0.5 0.6 0.9 Biotive ® Troxerutin 0.50.5 Troxerutin Carbopol ETD 2020 Acrylates/C10-30 0.2 Alkyl AcrylateCrosspolymer Carbopol ETD 2050 Carbomer 0.2 0.2 Carbopol Ultrez-21Acrylates/C10-30 0.5 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Citric Acid 10% sol.Citric Acid 3.1 in water Comperlan 100 Cocamide MEA 1 Corapan TQDiethylhexyl 2,6 3 Naphtalate Crinipan ® AD Climbazole 0.1 Cutina GMS VGlyceryl Stearate 2 Cutina PES Pentaerythrityl 2 Distearate Cutina TSPEG-3 Distearate 2.5 DC9701 Cosmetic Dimethicone/Vinyl 2 PowderDimethicone Crosspolymer, Silica Dermacryl AQF Acrylates 2 CopolymerDipropylene Glycol Dipropylene 1 Glycol Dow Corning 193 PEG-12 1surfactant Dimethicone Dow Corning 246 Cyclohexasiloxane 3 1 fluidD-Panthenol 75 L Panthenol 1 0.3 0.5 Dracorin ® CE Glyceryl 3Stearate/Citrate Dracorin ® GOC Glyceryl Oleate 1.5 0.5 Citrate,Caprylic Capric Triglyceride Drago-Beta-Glucan Water (Aqua), 1 ButyleneGlycol, Glycerin, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract DragoCalm ® Water,Glycerin, 1 Avena Sativa (Oat Kernel Extract) Dragoderm ® Glycerin,Triticum 2 Vulgare (Wheat) Gluten, Water (Aqua) Dragosan W/O P Sorbitan8 Isostearate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Ceresin, Beeswax (Cera Alba)Dragosantol ® 100 Bisabolol 0.1 0.2 Dragosine ® Carnosine 0.2 0.2Dragoxat ® 89 Ethylhexyl 2 5 4 7 15 5 Isononanoate EDTA B Tetrasodium0.1 EDTA EDTA BD Disodium EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Emulsiphos ® PotassiumCetyl 2 2 Phosphate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Ethanol Ethanol 10Ethylhexyl Ethylhexyl 0.5 Cyclohexyl Urea Cyclohexyl Urea Extrapone ®Propylene Glycol, 1 Ginkgo Biloba Water (Aqua), Ginkgo Biloba LeafExtract, Glucose, Lactic Acid Food Color Brown Color 2 3 E172 + E171Powder Fragrance PFO1 or Parfum 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.2 0.4 0.3 0.1 0.5 1 0.1PFO2 Frescolat ® MGA Menthone 0.1 Glycerin Acetal Frescolat ® ML MenthylLactate 0.2 Frescolat ® X-Cool Menthyl 0.4 Ethylamido OxalateFruitapone ® Propylene Glycol, 0.5 Orange B Water (Aqua), Citric Acid,Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Juice, Trideceth-9, Bisabolol Glycerine99.5% Glycerin 2.5 3 5 3 0.5 10 Hydrolite ®-5 Pentylene Glycol 3 2 5 1Hydroviton ®-24 Water, Pentylene 1 1 10 Glycol, Glycerin, Lactic Acid,Sodium Lactate, Serine, Urea, Sorbitol, Sodium Chloride, Allantoin IsoAdipat Diisopropyl 1 5 Adipate Isodragol ® Triisononanoin 2 IsopropylIsopropyl 13 Palmitate Palmitate Jaguar C-162 Hydroxypropyl 0.1 Guar,Hydroxypropyl- trimonium Chloride Jojoba Oil Simmondsia 1 2 Chinensis(Jojoba) Seed Oil Keltrol CG RD Xanthan Gum 0.4 0.2 0.2 0.1 0.05 Kojicacid Kojic acid 0.1 1 Lanette 16 Cetyl Alcohol 1 Lanette O CetearylAlcohol 0.5 3 5 Lara Care A-200 Galactoarabinan 0.3 Luviskol K30 PVP 3Powder Magnesium Magnesium 5 3 ascorbyl ascorbyl phosphate phosphateMagnesium Magnesium 0.7 Sulfate Sulfate Mineral Oil Mineral Oil 8 ad 100Neo Heliopan ® 303 Octocrylene 10 4 10 Neo Heliopan ® 357Butylmethoxydi- 3 2 3 5 benzoylmethane Neo Heliopan ® AP Disodium Phenyl3 Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate Neo Heliopan ® AP, Aqua, Disodium 6.76.7 15% sol., Phenyl neutralized with Dibenzimidazole Biotive ®L-Arginine Tetrasulfonate, Arginin Neo Heliopan ® E Isoamyl 1 1000 p.Methoxycinnamate Neo Heliopan ® Homosalate 5 5 HMS Neo Heliopan ® Aqua,10 10 10 Hydro, 20% sol., Phenylbenzimidazole neutralized with SulphonicBiotive ® L-Arginine Acid, Arginin Neo Heliopan ® 4- 1 MBCMethylbenzylidene Camphor Neo Heliopan ® OS Ethylhexyl 3 5 SalicylateNeutral Oil Caprylic/Capric 6 13.7 Triglyceride Nicotinamide Niacinamide0.5 1 Ozokerite Wax Ozokerite 2 2389 PCL-liquid 100 Cetearyl 2 4 5Ethylhexanoate PCL-Solid Stearyl 3 0.5 Heptanoate, Stearyl CaprylatePhytoconcentrole ® Caprylic/Capric 1 Coconut Triglyceride, Coconut(Cococ Nucifera) Oil Rewoderm LI S80 PEG-200 0.25 HydrogenatedPalmitate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate Rewopol SBFA30 Disodium Laureth 8Sulfosuccinate Silcare Silicone Stearyl 1 21 41M65 Dimethicone SodiumChloride Sodium Chloride 1.7 Sodium Hydroxide Sodium 0.9 10% sol.Hydroxide Solubilizer PEG-40 1.5 0.5 Hydrogenated Castor Oil,Trideceth-9, Propylene Glycol, Water (Aqua) Sym3D ® Hydroxymethoxy- 0.2phenyl Propylmethyl- methoxybenzofuran SymCalmin ® Pentylene Glycol, 1Butylene Glycol, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid SymClariol ®Decylene Glycol 0.5 SymDecanox HA Caprylic/Capric 1 Triglyceride,Hydroxymethoxy- phenyl Decanone SymDiol ® 68 1,2 Hexanediol, 0.6 0.5 0.50.8 0.5 0.5 Caprylyl Glycol SymFit ® 1617 Trimethylcyclohexyl 0.1Butylcarbamate SymFit ® nat 1750 Propanediol, 1 BobgunniaMadagascariensis Wood Extract SymGlucan ® Water (Aqua) 2 2 1 5 Glycerin,Beta Glucan SymMatrix ® Maltodextrin, 0.5 Rubus Fruticosus (Blackberry)Leaf Extract SymMollient ® L Neopentyl Glycol 2 5 DiisononanoateSymMollient ® S Cetearyl 1 4 Nonanoate SymMollient ® W/S Trideceth-9,PEG- 2 5 Isononanoate SymOcide ® PS Phenoxyethanol, 0.8 Decylene Glycol,1,2-Hexanediol SymRelief ® 100 Bisabolol, 0.1 Zingiber Officinale(Ginger) Root Extract SymRelief ® S Bisabolol, 0.1 0.2 Hydroxymethoxy-phenyl Decanone SymRepair ® Hexyldecanol, 1 3 Bisabolol,Cetylhydroxyproline Palmitamide, Stearic Acid, Brassica CampestrisSymSave ® H Hydroxyacetophenone 0.5 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.5 1.0 0.5SymSitive ®1609 Pentylene Glycol, 0.5 4-t- Butylcyclohexanol SymTriol ®Caprylyl Glycol, 0.8 1,2-Hexanediol, Methylbenzyl Alcohol SymVital ®Aloe Barbadensis 0.5 Leaf Juice Powder, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate,Rubus Idaeus SymWhite 377 Phenylethyl 0.5 0.1 (Symrise) resorcinolTinosorb S Bis- 3 Ethylhexyloxyphenol, Methoxyphenyl Triazine TapiocaPure Tapioca Starch 5 TeCe-Ozokerit Ozokerite ad 100 N502 Tego Betain L7Cocoamidopropyl 5 Betaine Tegosoft TN C12-15 Alkyl 5 Benzoate TexaponN70 Sodium Laureth 15 Sulfate Triethanolamine Triethanolamine 0.5 99%3,3,5- 3,3,5-Trimethylcyclohexyl 0.5 Trimethylcyclohexyl SuccinateSuccinate Dimethylamide Dimethylamide Vitamin E acetat Tocopherol 0.50.5 0.5 0.2 0.5 0.7 Acetate Wacker-Belsil C26-C28 Alkyl 2 CDM3526 VPDimethicone Water, demin. Water (Aqua) Ad 100

1. A cosmetic composition comprising an anti-pollution agent selected from the group consisting of ginger root CO2 extract, E/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one, sclareolide, purple coneflower pressed juice and mixtures thereof, in a working amount sufficient for (a) reducing or preventing air pollution induced gene expression, and/or (b) reducing or preventing a gene expression induced or inducible by polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, and/or (c) reducing or preventing air pollution-induced or air pollution-inducible skin damage.
 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the skin damage is skin cancer, skin inflammation or hyperpigmentation.
 3. The composition of claim 1, comprising a binary mixture of (i) ginger root CO2 extract and sclareolide, or (ii) ginger root CO2 extract and E/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one, or (ii) ginger root CO2 extract and purple coneflower pressed juice.
 4. The composition of claim 1, comprising a ternary mixture of (i) ginger root CO2 extract, sclareolide and purple coneflower pressed juice; or (ii) ginger root CO2 extract, E/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one and sclareolide; or (iii) ginger root CO2 extract, E/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one and purple coneflower pressed juice.
 5. The composition of claim 1, which is a personal care composition, a skin care composition, a hair care composition or a sun care composition.
 6. The composition of claim 1, which is a lotion, a cream, an emulsion, a foam, a mousse, an oil or a stick.
 7. The composition of claim 1, wherein said agent is present in an amount of from about 0.01% by weight to about 2.5% by weight—calculated on the final composition.
 8. The composition of claim 7, wherein said agent is present in an amount of from about 0.05% by weight to about 1.0% by weight—calculated on the final composition.
 9. The composition of claim 1, further comprising a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
 10. The composition of claim 9, wherein said cosmetically acceptable carrier is selected from the group consisting of water, C2-C4 alcohols, polyols having 2 to 6 carbon atoms and oil bodies.
 11. A medicament comprising an anti-pollution agent selected from the group consisting of ginger root CO2 extract, E/Z-2-benzylindene-5, 6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one, sclareolide, purple coneflower pressed juice, or binary mixtures thereof and ternary mixtures thereof, for preventing, treating and/or curing human skin and/or hair from (a) air pollution induced gene expression, and/or (b) gene expression induced or inducible by polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, and/or (c) air pollution-induced or air pollution-inducible skin damage.
 12. A non-therapeutical method for protecting human skin and/or hair against air pollution induced damage by applying an effective amount of at least one anti-pollution agent selected from the group consisting of ginger root CO2 extract, E/Z-2-benzylindene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylindan-1-one, sclareolide, purple coneflower pressed juice, binary mixtures thereof and of ternary mixtures thereof.
 13. The method of claim 12, wherein said agent is applied to human skin and/or hair in an effective amount of about 0.1 to about 5 mg/cm². 14-15. (canceled) 